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Nine houses fill each side, every one raised on a covered walk of arches, with two floors above and a steep slate roof. Step in at a corner and the street noise drops. The lawns are open to sit on, art galleries and restaurant tables fill much of the arcade, and musicians play under its arches.\n\nIt was the first square in Paris built to a single design. Henri IV ordered it in 1605 on an old horse market, as silk workshops at first, so that France would stop buying Italy's silk, and he was assassinated in 1610 without seeing it finished. A marble Louis XIII rides at the centre, replacing a bronze the Revolution melted down. 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The same arch repeats past every doorway until you are back where you began. Look up and compare the ceilings as you go, because each house was raised by a different owner working to one imposed design.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1049\u002Fe0-a4db.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"Lie on the lawn and read the roofline","Take a patch of grass in the afternoon and lie flat with your head towards the nearest row of houses. From down there the whole ridge looks like one unbroken line of blue slate, with roof windows and chimney stacks repeating along it. From the ground you cannot tell where one house ends and the next begins.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1049\u002Fe1-c234.webp","--Beckstet 11:53, 29 Apr 2005 (UTC) \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":201,"description":202,"imageUrl":203,"attribution":204},"See the arcade before the tables come out","Come at first light, while the garden gate is still locked and the restaurants have not set out their tables. The arcade is then empty end to end, and you can see the ground floor as it was built, arch after arch with nothing standing in front of it. Later, chairs and awnings hide most of it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1049\u002Fe2-171d.webp","Miguel Hermoso Cuesta \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[206,211,216],{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","Some of the brick is only painted plaster","Parts of these facades are not brick at all. They are plaster, scored with fake joints and painted red.","Brick was expensive, and plaster was cheaper, especially for later repairs. Masons ruled false joints into the wet plaster, then painted the panels brick-red so that all four sides of the square looked alike. France's monument research centre holds a sample lifted from a building here, dated to the nineteenth century. In low sun you can pick out the flat patches that have no real joints.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":150},"history","A duel fought in daylight to defy the king","This square was a favourite duelling ground, and in 1627 two noblemen fought here in daylight to mock a royal ban.","François de Montmorency-Bouteville had already fought more than twenty duels when he met his rival Beuvron here on 12 May 1627. An edict the year before had banned duelling and threatened repeat offenders with death. Friends fought alongside each man, and one of those friends was killed. 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