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Fishmongers, bakers, cheesemongers and greengrocers stand in the same premises their trades have held for generations, selling to people who live within walking distance. The street was closed to cars in the 1990s, so the tables come out into the middle of it. Number 38 carries a gilded snail the size of a dog over its door. On a Saturday morning it is packed shoulder to shoulder with people carrying bags.\n\nThis is what is left of Les Halles. The city's wholesale food market filled the streets south of here for eight centuries, and the shops along this one supplied it, fed the porters and sold what the market brought in. When the iron pavilions were pulled down in 1971 the market had already gone to the suburbs and the quarter lost its reason to exist. This street kept its trade. Number 51 has been a pastry shop since 1730, opened by a cook who came to France with Louis XV's Polish queen.","FR",[],"timing|**Saturday morning is full and Monday is thin** — The food shops keep the week their local customers keep, so Monday closures are common and Sunday trading stops in the early afternoon.\nfood|**The queues are the signal** — On a street where every second door sells something to eat, the line outside a counter tells you more than any sign on it does.\nhistory|**The market it fed is a shopping centre now** — Walk two minutes south and the ground where the pavilions stood is a sunken mall with a garden laid over the top of it.\narchitecture|**The buildings are older than they look** — Many date from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries and only had shopfronts added later, which is why the upper floors do not line up.",[163,164],"aP_WLHw-D6I","fvxk8s2ngBk","Europe\u002FParis","paris","c362351fac8c","street","Montorgueil–Les Halles (2nd)",{"gallery":171,"exps":188,"boxes":203,"seasons":224,"near":225,"peers":226},[172,174,176,179,182,185],{"url":153,"attribution":173},"TheMarcusChance \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":175,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1082\u002Fg0-e62c.webp",{"url":177,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1082\u002Fg1-789b.webp","Guilhem Vellut from Paris, France \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":180,"attribution":181},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1082\u002Fg2-961a.webp","Neoclassicism Enthusiast \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":183,"attribution":184},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1082\u002Fg3-219d.webp","Thomon \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":186,"attribution":187},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1082\u002Fg4-1baf.webp","Chabe01 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[189,193,198],{"title":190,"description":191,"imageUrl":192,"attribution":187},"Walk the street once before eight and once at noon","Come before eight and the street is at work: crates on the pavement, ice going into fish trays, shutters rolling up. Come back in the middle of the day and the same hundred metres is full of tables, queues and shopping bags. The early visit is the one that shows you how the food shops here actually run.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1082\u002Fe0-bee4.webp",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":197},"Look above head height at the shopfronts","Most of the fronts here are older than the businesses behind them. Several of them are legally protected, which means the owner is not allowed to alter them. Look up for gilded lettering, carved wood, a painted panel or a carved animal: a snail over one door, a sheaf over another. That protection is why a shop can change hands and still look exactly the same from the street.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1082\u002Fe1-a46a.webp","VVVCFFrance \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":199,"description":200,"imageUrl":201,"attribution":202},"Buy one thing at one counter","Pick a single shop and buy a single thing at it: one piece of cheese, one pastry, one fish. You will be asked when you plan to eat it, and the answer changes what you are handed. A cheesemonger keeps pieces at different stages of ripeness, so a cheese for tonight is not the same piece as a cheese for Thursday.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1082\u002Fe2-d929.webp","Fred Romero from Paris, France \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[204,209,214,219],{"boxType":205,"title":206,"body":207,"deepBody":208,"sourceNote":150},"history","The street is named after a rubbish heap","The name Montorgueil is usually explained as mont orgueilleux, the proud hill. The hill in question was a mound of refuse and oyster shells that had piled up outside the medieval city wall.","The road ran north out of Les Halles, the city's food market, and over the mound, and the mound was made of what that market threw away. Shells were the bulk of it, because oysters were cheap food and came into Paris by this road in enormous quantities. More than one explanation of the street's name circulates, and this is the oldest of them.",{"boxType":210,"title":211,"body":212,"deepBody":213,"sourceNote":150},"culture","The pastry shop was decorated by an opera painter","The shop at number 51 was fitted out in 1864 with painted panels by Paul Baudry, who later decorated the grand foyer of the opera house.","The panels show women representing sweetness and the pleasures of the table, painted in the same manner Baudry used a few years later on the far larger ceilings of the opera house. The shop is still a working pâtisserie, and the paintings hang behind the counter rather than in a display case, so they have spent their whole life in a room full of customers instead of in museum conditions.",{"boxType":215,"title":216,"body":217,"deepBody":218,"sourceNote":150},"food","These trades need a customer every day","The trades here are the ones that need a customer every day: fish, bread, cheese, vegetables and meat, each in its own single-product shop.","A shop that sells nothing but cheese needs a street where people buy food several times a week, which means residents rather than visitors. When the wholesale market left the quarter, those residents stayed, and that is why the food shops are still in business. It is also why the street feels like a different place before ten in the morning, when the buying is done by people who live here.",{"boxType":220,"title":221,"body":222,"deepBody":223,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","The day the street vanished under flags","On 30 June 1878 the government declared a national celebration and every window on this street was hung with tricolour cloth.","France had just held a world's fair and wanted the republic celebrated in public for the first time since the war of 1870. Monet painted the street that day from a balcony he had asked a shopkeeper to let him use, and that painting is the reason a single afternoon of bunting is still remembered. 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