[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-0aa0141b9b6b":3,"categories-en":33,"detail-extra-1069":172,"travel-countries-en":318},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":9,"elevationM":9,"bestMonths":21,"tips":22,"howToGetThere":9,"youtubeIds":23,"timezone":28,"cityGuideSlug":29,"cityGuidePublicId":30,"cityGuideName":15,"poiTheme":31,"poiNeighborhood":32},1069,"0aa0141b9b6b","paris-saint-germain-des-pres-abbey-church","Saint-Germain-des-Prés Abbey Church","The oldest church tower still standing in Paris, over a nave painted blue and gold with twenty scenes running along its walls.",null,3,2.33379,48.85411,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1069\u002Fcover-6c7a.webp","France","Paris",0,"city_poi",2,"Saint-Germain-des-Prés keeps the oldest church tower still standing in Paris, finished around the year 1000, and inside, the nave is painted blue and gold from floor to vault. Gold stars cross the deep blue vaults and the columns are painted red and green. Twenty large scenes run in pairs along the nave walls, the Old Testament on one side and the New on the other. Most visitors expect bare stone inside an old church, but that bare look is itself a later fashion.\n\nThis blue and gold interior is far newer than the church carrying it: nineteenth-century work, two painters, twenty-one years, and a full cleaning in our own time. The abbey behind it is much older. A Frankish king founded it in meadows outside the city, and prés is still French for meadows. Later it passed to Benedictine scholars who made themselves useful in an unexpected way — they worked out how to tell a genuine medieval charter from a forgery. The Revolution shut them out. Go outside and look at the choir end: two more towers once stood there, and they were cut down to stumps.","FR",[],"light|**Come when the sun is out and stand halfway down the nave** — The windows are small and set high, so on a grey day the upper scenes sink into brown.\ndetail|**Use your phone's zoom on the wall scenes** — They hang high above the arches, and the faces, haloes and painted borders only come clear once you magnify them.\norientation|**Start at the back, under the organ** — From there you see both painted walls at once, all the way down the five sections of the nave to the lit choir.\netiquette|**Keep to the side aisles when a service is running** — This is a working parish, the nave chairs are for the congregation, and people come here to pray rather than to look.\naccess|**Walk straight in; there is no ticket desk** — Chapels are cleaned one at a time, so one may be boarded off. The tower is not open to climb.",[24,25,26,27],"ROV1BR0UTWk","qRLByLSqUUM","nV5nNS_t61o","WqZzKJAE9c0","Europe\u002FParis","paris","c362351fac8c","church","Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th)",[34,39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,128,132,137,142,147,152,157,162,167],{"id":35,"slug":36,"name":37,"color":38},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":18,"slug":125,"name":126,"color":127},"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":10,"slug":129,"name":130,"color":131},"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":133,"slug":134,"name":135,"color":136},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":138,"slug":139,"name":140,"color":141},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":143,"slug":144,"name":145,"color":146},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":148,"slug":149,"name":150,"color":151},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":153,"slug":154,"name":155,"color":156},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":158,"slug":159,"name":160,"color":161},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":163,"slug":164,"name":165,"color":166},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":168,"slug":169,"name":170,"color":171},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":173,"exps":188,"boxes":207,"seasons":227,"near":228,"peers":229},[174,176,179,182,185],{"url":13,"attribution":175},"Zairon \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":177,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1069\u002Fg0-d178.webp","Diliff \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":180,"attribution":181},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1069\u002Fg1-ab50.webp","Diego Delso \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":183,"attribution":184},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1069\u002Fg2-f817.webp","GO69 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":186,"attribution":187},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1069\u002Fg3-6061.webp","Guilhem Vellut from Paris, France \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[189,194,198,202],{"title":190,"description":191,"imageUrl":192,"attribution":193},"Find the hammered faces over the west door","Before you go in, stand under the stone porch at the west end and look up at the carved panel over the doorway. It shows Christ and the apostles at table. Revolutionary crowds chiselled every head flat in 1792. The plain round columns beside you replaced a row of carved stone kings, which were destroyed as well.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1069\u002Fe0-1063.webp","Pierre Poschadel \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":178},"Sit in the nave and match the Old Testament scenes to the New","Take a chair in the middle of the nave and look up above the arches. The south wall carries painted scenes from the Old Testament, and the north wall scenes from the New. Each scene faces its partner across the nave, because the older story was believed to announce the later one. There are ten pairs in all, spread across the five sections of the nave.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1069\u002Fe1-9a69.webp",{"title":199,"description":200,"imageUrl":201,"attribution":193},"Hunt for reused marble in the walkway behind the altar","Walk past the altar into the curved walkway behind the choir, then look up at the small row of arches above the main ones. The slim marble columns that carry them are older than the arcade they stand in. Scholars think they were cut for the sixth-century church on this site and put back to use when the choir was rebuilt.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1069\u002Fe2-36ac.webp",{"title":203,"description":204,"imageUrl":205,"attribution":206},"Find the ruins of the chapel in the garden next door","Leave by the west door and walk round to the small railed garden on the church's north side, off rue de l'Abbaye. Carved arches and column bases stand in the grass. They are all that is left of the abbey's Lady Chapel, which was wrecked when gunpowder stored in the abbey exploded in 1794. Among them stands a bronze head of a woman that Picasso gave the city in 1959.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1069\u002Fe3-fbc8.webp","Celette \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[208,213,218,223],{"boxType":209,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":9},"architecture","The painted walls have always had critics","Scholars have criticised the painted decoration for a century, saying its gold and colour hide the Romanesque stonework underneath.","The architectural historian Eugène Lefèvre-Pontalis wrote in 1920 that the decorators had done everything they could to blur the lines of the architecture. He objected to the gold laid on the old carved column tops in the sanctuary as much as to the painted walls. Conservators today count that nineteenth-century paint as heritage in its own right, so they clean it instead of stripping it off.",{"boxType":214,"title":215,"body":216,"deepBody":217,"sourceNote":9},"did_you_know","Some of the carved column tops overhead are copies","Twelve of the carved blocks at the tops of the nave columns are nineteenth-century copies. The eleventh-century originals are now in a museum nearby.","Most of the roughly forty carved column tops along the nave are still original, so the majority of the carving above you is genuine. The Musée de Cluny keeps the twelve that were taken down during nineteenth-century repairs. Accounts disagree over which architect removed them. From the floor, the copies are hard to tell apart from the originals.",{"boxType":219,"title":220,"body":221,"deepBody":222,"sourceNote":9},"history","Gunpowder in the nave","The Revolutionary state refined saltpetre for gunpowder inside the emptied church from 1794 and stored finished powder in the abbey buildings.","On 19 August 1794 about twelve tonnes of that powder exploded and set the buildings on fire. The fire destroyed the abbey library and its collection of antiquities, though the books themselves were saved. The blast also wrecked the thirteenth-century Lady Chapel. Saltpetre refining carried on in the church until 1802.",{"boxType":219,"title":224,"body":225,"deepBody":226,"sourceNote":9},"Descartes is buried here, but not his skull","The philosopher René Descartes was reburied in this church in 1819. A skull said to be his later reached Paris, but it was never put back with the rest of his remains.","Descartes died in Stockholm in 1650, and his body was brought to France seventeen years later. A skull said to be his stayed behind in Sweden. The chemist Jöns Jacob Berzelius bought it around 1821 and sent it to Paris, where the Musée de l'Homme keeps it today. 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