[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"categories-en":3,"dest-21eaa25cf0bf":144,"detail-extra-461":168,"travel-countries-en":257},[4,9,14,19,24,29,34,39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,129,134,139],{"id":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"color":8},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":10,"slug":11,"name":12,"color":13},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":15,"slug":16,"name":17,"color":18},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":20,"slug":21,"name":22,"color":23},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":25,"slug":26,"name":27,"color":28},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":30,"slug":31,"name":32,"color":33},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":35,"slug":36,"name":37,"color":38},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},3,"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":125,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":130,"slug":131,"name":132,"color":133},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":135,"slug":136,"name":137,"color":138},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":140,"slug":141,"name":142,"color":143},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"id":145,"publicId":146,"slug":147,"name":148,"shortDescription":149,"categoryId":105,"importance":105,"lng":150,"lat":151,"coverImageUrl":152,"country":153,"region":154,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":-1,"kind":156,"cityGuideId":157,"description":158,"countryCode":159,"adminArea":157,"elevationM":160,"bestMonths":161,"tips":163,"howToGetThere":157,"youtubeIds":164,"timezone":157,"cityGuideSlug":157,"cityGuidePublicId":157,"cityGuideName":157,"poiTheme":157,"poiNeighborhood":157},461,"21eaa25cf0bf","pico-do-fogo","Pico do Fogo","A 2,829-metre cone inside a nine-kilometre caldera on Cape Verde whose floor people farm, growing the country's only vineyards in black sand beside 2014 lava.",-24.3506,14.9489,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F461\u002Fcover.webp","Cape Verde","Fogo",0,"nature",null,"Pico do Fogo is a volcanic cone of 2,829 metres on the island of Fogo in Cape Verde, the highest point in the country, standing inside a caldera nine kilometres across whose floor people farm, growing the only vineyards in the islands in black sand beside the lava of 2014, and it is climbed to its rim in a morning and run back down the ash in minutes. The caldera is the collapsed core of an older volcano whose eastern side is missing, the scar of a landslide that sent a wave across to the next island long before people came, and its western wall, the Bordeira, rises a thousand metres above the floor; the villages of Chã das Caldeiras, Portela and Bangaeira, stand on the floor among fields of broken volcanic rock that crunches and rings underfoot, some of it only a few years old, and the eruption of 2014 sent lava through both, so that roofs and door lintels still surface from the black rock where the flow stopped with houses half-buried in it. Government housing was built for the families down at Monte Grande after an earlier eruption, and they went back to the caldera anyway.\n\nThe climb leaves the village before dawn with a guide, three or four hours up loose scoria to the rim, where the crater opens 500 metres wide and 150 deep with fumaroles venting along its edge and the air sharp with sulphur, the whole island and the Atlantic laid out below and the cloud deck beneath; the descent is a run down the ash slope in long sliding steps, twenty minutes for what took three hours. In the villages the vines are planted directly into volcanic sand and lapilli and make Manecom, the dark sweet wine of Chã, named for the French count who planted them in the 1870s and whose blue eyes and blond hair are still common in the caldera, and the vindima fills July and August. Pico do Fogo is a volcano with a village inside it, and the wine is grown on the last eruption.","CV",2829,[90,95,100,105,110,115,120,125,162,130],11,"timing|**Guides set off from the village in the dark, around 4am** — the 1,100-metre ash slope is far kinder in the cool, and you reach the crater rim before the day's heat builds.\nmonths|**The grape harvest runs from July into early September**, when the caldera fills with pickers and the cellars open the new Manecom — though it overlaps the rains, when the trails are at their roughest.\naccess|**The climb starts in Chã das Caldeiras, not in São Filipe** — take a local guide from the village itself, and plan to come up the evening before and sleep inside the caldera.\nsafety|**Gaiters, ankle boots and a windproof layer earn their place here** — the fine ash pours into low shoes, and the summit can sit near freezing at night while the coast is still at 25°C.",[165,166,167],"36kuvPXXlVY","JKiDTERhvMY","j0DgNRUxKlE",{"gallery":169,"exps":186,"boxes":203,"seasons":219,"near":255,"peers":256},[170,172,175,178,180,183],{"url":152,"attribution":171},"Foto: Ximonic, Simo Räsänen \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":173,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F461\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: Cayambe \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":176,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F461\u002Fg1.webp","Foto: Franzfoto \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":179,"attribution":171},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F461\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":181,"attribution":182},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F461\u002Fg3.webp","Foto: Zinneke \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F461\u002Fg4.webp","Foto: David Trainer \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",[187,191,195,199],{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":174},"Climb to the crater rim and run the ash back down","At the rim the crater opens 500 metres wide and 150 deep, fumaroles venting along its edge and the air turning sharp with sulphur, the whole island and the Atlantic laid out below. Going down is the reward: the ash is deep enough to run, each stride sinking in and carrying you several metres, so the grind uphill disappears in minutes.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F461\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":177},"Cross the black lava fields under the Bordeira","The caldera floor is a field of broken volcanic rock that crunches and rings underfoot, some of it only a few years old. Above it the Bordeira draws a thousand-metre wall around half the horizon, and the sense of standing inside something enormous never quite leaves you.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F461\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":171},"Drink Manecom in the black-sand vineyards","Chã is the only place in Cape Verde that grows grapes in any quantity, and the vines are planted directly into volcanic sand and lapilli. In the village cellars and at the rebuilt co-operative you can taste Manecom, the dark, sweet, faintly smoky house wine the caldera is known for.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F461\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":182},"Stand at the rooftops the 2014 lava swallowed","In Portela and Bangaeira the lava stopped with houses half-buried in it, so that roofs and door lintels still surface from the black rock. New homes now stand a few metres away — the clearest picture anywhere of what it means to live on an active volcano and refuse to move.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F461\u002Fe4.webp",[204,209,214],{"boxType":205,"title":206,"body":207,"deepBody":208,"sourceNote":157},"geology","The wave that reached the next island","The caldera's open eastern side is a scar. Part of the volcano once broke away and slid into the Atlantic, and the collapse raised a wave that struck the next island, 55 kilometres away.","Around 73,000 years ago roughly 160 cubic kilometres of Fogo's eastern flank collapsed into the sea. The wave it raised struck Santiago, some 55 kilometres away, running up more than 270 metres and stranding boulders weighing hundreds of tonnes as much as 200 metres above sea level.",{"boxType":210,"title":211,"body":212,"deepBody":213,"sourceNote":157},"culture","The count who planted the vines","Blue eyes and blond hair are common in Chã das Caldeiras, and the wine carries a man's name. Both trace back to a single settler.","A French aristocrat remembered as the Count of Montrond settled in the caldera and brought the first vines with him, along with wells that are still used. A great many families here descend from him, and the house wine, Manecom, is said to be named after a Manuel Montrond of the same line.",{"boxType":215,"title":216,"body":217,"deepBody":218,"sourceNote":157},"history","The houses nobody moved into","There is government housing waiting for Chã's families down at Monte Grande, built for them after an earlier eruption. Almost nobody lives in it.","Monte Grande lies too far from the caldera to farm from day to day, and the vines, the terraces and the visitors inside Chã are what earn a living here. So after 2014, as after 1995, families rebuilt in the ground declared too dangerous to build on — and the co-operative winery went up again with them.",[220,225,229,234,239,243,250],{"phenomenon":221,"peakMonths":222,"note":223,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":90},"clearview",[100,105,110,115],"March to June is the caldera's clearest window: the Saharan Harmattan dust of winter has settled and the August-October rains have not yet come, so the summit morning breaks sharp above the Atlantic cloud-deck.",false,{"phenomenon":226,"peakMonths":227,"note":228,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":95},"harvest",[120,125],"In July and August the vindima fills the caldera: families pick the vines straight out of the black volcanic sand and the co-operative cellars broach the new Manecom, the dark sweet wine of Chã.",{"phenomenon":230,"peakMonths":231,"note":232,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":233},"chapter_edge",[90,95,162,130],"The dry-season climbing window returns: the ash underfoot is firm and cool, and everything in the caldera is open. But from December the Harmattan, the dry wind off the Sahara, hauls dust that can grey out the view over the Atlantic cloud layer you climb for.",50,{"phenomenon":235,"peakMonths":236,"note":237,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":238},"chapter_peak",[100,105,110,115],"The strongest months to climb. The ash is at its firmest and the nights on the caldera floor are cool, which is what makes a four-hour grind in volcanic cinder bearable. The vines are only budding and the harvest is months off, so the villages are quiet and the trails are not busy.",51,{"phenomenon":235,"peakMonths":240,"note":241,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":242},[120,125],"The village is at its most alive with the harvest in. But the August rains are starting, so the ash climb turns wet and rough.",52,{"phenomenon":244,"peakMonths":245,"note":248,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":249},"chapter_quiet",[246,247],9,10,"The rains peak now — September is the wettest month — so the ash trails turn slippery and low cloud hides the summit views. The grape harvest is over. The caldera turns green, and the village, its guesthouses and its guides stay open all year.",53,{"phenomenon":251,"peakMonths":252,"note":253,"requiresDarkSky":224,"sortOrder":254},"baseline",[],"The cone, the bare 2014 lava and the vineyards in black sand are here every day, and the caldera is climbed year-round. What changes with the season is the clarity of the air, the rains, the trail underfoot and the 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