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The old cemetery is the hardest to shake: forbidden to expand, it holds roughly twelve thousand headstones leaning into one another over layers of graves. The Old-New Synagogue has been in use since about 1270, which makes it the oldest working synagogue in Europe, and its twin-nave Gothic hall is plainer than anything around it. In the Pinkas Synagogue the walls carry 77,297 hand-painted names.\n\nJews were confined to this stretch of the Old Town from the thirteenth century, and by the nineteenth it was the poorest and densest ground in Prague. Between 1893 and the 1910s the city cleared almost all of it, and the wide Art Nouveau apartment blocks you walk between now stand where the crooked lanes were. Six synagogues, the cemetery and the town hall were kept. 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Stones from the fifteenth century to 1787 tilt into one another in a space the size of a city block, elder trees pushing up between them, and the noise of Pařížská drops away completely.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F644\u002Fe-5293.webp","Maria_Domnina \u002F Pixabay Content License — Pixabay",{"title":52,"description":53,"imageUrl":54,"attribution":55},"Read one wall in the Pinkas","The names are painted by hand, family by family and town by town, in red and black. Pick one surname and follow it down the wall; the repetition of a single family across a dozen lines does more than the total figure ever can.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F644\u002Fe-5294.webp","Uoaei1 \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 — Wikimedia Commons",{"title":57,"description":58,"imageUrl":59,"attribution":60},"Sit in the Old-New Synagogue","The hall is low, brick-vaulted and dim, with a seventeenth-century banner over the nave and an iron grille around the platform in the middle. It has been in use for seven hundred and fifty years, and it feels far closer to a working room than to a monument.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F644\u002Fe-5295.webp","Paljan84 \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 — Wikimedia Commons",[62,67,72],{"boxType":63,"title":64,"body":65,"deepBody":66,"sourceNote":9},"history","The town that was pulled down","Franz Kafka was born on the edge of the quarter in 1883 and watched it come down as a boy.","The clearance began in 1893 on public-health grounds and flattened most of the ghetto, scattering its poorest residents. Kafka is said to have remarked that the dark corners of the old quarter still lived on inside him — which is close to all that survives of them.",{"boxType":68,"title":69,"body":70,"deepBody":71,"sourceNote":9},"legend","The Golem in the attic","The story that a clay man sleeps above the Old-New Synagogue is six centuries younger than the building.","Rabbi Judah Loew, the sixteenth-century scholar buried in the old cemetery, had nothing to do with the tale in his own lifetime; the two were joined in print around 1840. The attic is real and its outside stair was removed long ago, and the story went on to produce novels, a silent film and most of what visitors arrive expecting.",{"boxType":73,"title":74,"body":75,"deepBody":76,"sourceNote":9},"culture","Twelve layers down","The cemetery could not grow outward, so the community raised the ground and buried again on top.","Jewish law forbids disturbing a grave, so earth was carted in and new burials laid above the old — in places up to twelve layers deep. 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