[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-eb02214b91e6":3,"categories-en":32,"detail-extra-1258":171,"travel-countries-en":313},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":9,"elevationM":9,"bestMonths":21,"tips":22,"howToGetThere":9,"youtubeIds":23,"timezone":27,"cityGuideSlug":28,"cityGuidePublicId":29,"cityGuideName":15,"poiTheme":30,"poiNeighborhood":31},1258,"eb02214b91e6","prague-lobkowicz-palace","Lobkowicz Palace","One family's collection hung back in their own rooms inside Prague Castle, confiscated twice in a century and returned twice.",null,3,14.40491,50.09158,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1258\u002Fcover-5eda.webp","Czechia","Prague",0,"city_poi",5,"The Lobkowicz Palace is one family's collection, hung in the family's own rooms inside Prague Castle. Four centuries of a single household are on the walls: Pieter Bruegel the Elder's Haymaking, two views of London that Canaletto painted on commission here, orchestral parts marked in Beethoven's hand, and Mozart's re-scoring of Handel's Messiah. Between them hang relatives, sporting guns, dogs and dinner services, because this was a house before it was a museum.\n\nWhat is unusual here is who is showing it to you. The collections were seized twice in one century and came back twice, the second time after 1989. The palace itself was handed back in 2002, and the family opened it as their own museum in 2007. None of that is smoothed over on the labels, so the losses are part of what you read as you go. It changes how the rooms feel. You are not walking a national collection assembled by a state; you are walking one household's things, put back on the walls of the house they were taken from, by the people they were taken from.","CZ",[],"access|**The Castle ticket does not cover this door** — the palace stands inside the gates but is privately run and sells its own admission, which is the single commonest mistake made at this end of Jiřská.\ncrowds|**It is the quietest interior on the hill** — The cathedral and the Old Royal Palace move people through in a queue; these rooms are often empty, so you can linger.\nmusic|**Look for pencil, not print, on the scores** — The manuscript room's value is the corrections and cues composers wrote on the parts themselves, legible if you get close to the case.",[24,25,26],"xmMuR6iaBwg","JCRHHt8WQuo","TIKJyGKMRbc","Europe\u002FPrague","prague","60f4cda17b80","museum","Prague Castle (Hradčany)",[33,38,43,48,53,58,63,68,73,78,83,88,93,98,103,108,113,118,123,128,132,137,141,146,151,156,161,166],{"id":34,"slug":35,"name":36,"color":37},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":39,"slug":40,"name":41,"color":42},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":44,"slug":45,"name":46,"color":47},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":49,"slug":50,"name":51,"color":52},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":54,"slug":55,"name":56,"color":57},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":59,"slug":60,"name":61,"color":62},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":64,"slug":65,"name":66,"color":67},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":69,"slug":70,"name":71,"color":72},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":74,"slug":75,"name":76,"color":77},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":79,"slug":80,"name":81,"color":82},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":84,"slug":85,"name":86,"color":87},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":89,"slug":90,"name":91,"color":92},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":94,"slug":95,"name":96,"color":97},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":99,"slug":100,"name":101,"color":102},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":104,"slug":105,"name":106,"color":107},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":109,"slug":110,"name":111,"color":112},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":114,"slug":115,"name":116,"color":117},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":119,"slug":120,"name":121,"color":122},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":124,"slug":125,"name":126,"color":127},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":10,"slug":129,"name":130,"color":131},"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":133,"slug":134,"name":135,"color":136},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":18,"slug":138,"name":139,"color":140},"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":142,"slug":143,"name":144,"color":145},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":147,"slug":148,"name":149,"color":150},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":152,"slug":153,"name":154,"color":155},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":157,"slug":158,"name":159,"color":160},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":162,"slug":163,"name":164,"color":165},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":167,"slug":168,"name":169,"color":170},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":172,"exps":189,"boxes":200,"seasons":221,"near":222,"peers":223},[173,175,178,181,184,186],{"url":13,"attribution":174},"Skot \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":176,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1258\u002Fg0-6df7.webp","VitVit \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1258\u002Fg1-9c30.webp","Canaletto \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":182,"attribution":183},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1258\u002Fg2-f37c.webp","Lucas Cranach the Elder \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":185,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1258\u002Fg3-d4d0.webp",{"url":187,"attribution":188},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1258\u002Fg4-c81d.webp","Ricardalovesmonuments \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[190,195],{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":194},"Stand in front of the Bruegel until the work reads","Find Haymaking and stay with it. It is a working landscape, not a scene: scythes being carried, a cart loading, figures on a path that runs out of the picture. Four of its five surviving companions are in Vienna and New York, so this is the whole of the cycle available anywhere between them.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1258\u002Fe0-9ff8.webp","Pieter Brueghel the Elder \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"Walk the family rooms as an inventory","Go through the portrait and object rooms without hunting for masterpieces. Guns, porcelain, dog paintings and generations of faces are hung as a household accumulated them. It is the clearest picture in Prague of what an aristocratic collection actually looked like before the state or a museum ever sorted it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1258\u002Fe2-e241.webp","Jakob Seisenegger \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[201,206,211,216],{"boxType":202,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":9},"history","Taken twice, returned twice","The Nazis confiscated the family's property in 1939 and the Communists took it again in 1948.","The first restitution came after the war and lasted three years. The second followed the restitution laws of the early 1990s, with the palace itself formally returned in 2002 and opened to the public in 2007. Reassembling the collection meant tracing objects across state depots and museums; the family's own account of that search is part of the display.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":9},"culture","One month out of a lost year","Bruegel painted a cycle of the seasons; five panels survive, and this is the only one outside Vienna and New York.","Haymaking shows early summer — scythes, a cart, the work of the year rather than an event. The cycle is usually reckoned to have run to six panels for a merchant's house in Antwerp, of which three are now in Vienna and one in New York. Standing in front of this one in Prague means standing in front of a fifth of what is left.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":9},"did_you_know","The annuity that bought the Eroica","The family paid Beethoven a yearly income, and the parts his orchestras played from are in these rooms.","Prince Joseph Franz Maximilian of Lobkowicz was one of the patrons who guaranteed the composer a salary so he would stay put and keep writing. What survives here is not a fair copy but working material: orchestral parts for the Third, Fourth and Fifth symphonies carrying corrections and cues in Beethoven's own hand, and Mozart's re-orchestration of Handel's Messiah in his.",{"boxType":217,"title":218,"body":219,"deepBody":220,"sourceNote":9},"local_secret","A collection with the household still in it","Nothing here was chosen by a curator. Objects arrived because somebody married, hunted, travelled, or wanted to be painted.","That is the whole difference between a private collection and a national gallery, where every object is picked to stand for a period. Read these rooms as a household inventory instead and the Bruegel and the Beethoven parts fall into place — they hang where they actually hung.",[],[],[224,232,239,246,253,261,269,277,284,291,297,305],{"id":225,"name":226,"slug":227,"publicId":228,"coverImageUrl":229,"poiTheme":230,"neighborhood":231},622,"Charles Bridge","prague-charles-bridge","f84f7150410b","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F622\u002Fcover-ebc0.webp","landmark","Old Town \u002F Malá Strana",{"id":233,"name":234,"slug":235,"publicId":236,"coverImageUrl":237,"poiTheme":230,"neighborhood":238},627,"Old Town Square & Astronomical Clock","prague-old-town-square","71a8850a5576","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F627\u002Fcover-c097.webp","Old Town (Staré Město)",{"id":240,"name":241,"slug":242,"publicId":243,"coverImageUrl":244,"poiTheme":245,"neighborhood":31},624,"St Vitus 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