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You sit on the bare edge with your legs over the water, with the traffic out of earshot above you. On Saturday mornings a farmers' market runs the length of it all year. In the warm months boats moored alongside serve drinks and concerts happen on the paving.\n\nThe embankment wall behind you is hollow. Twenty vaults were cut into it in the nineteenth century, used for storing river ice and goods, then sealed when the quay became a car park. A reworking finished around 2020 opened them again as cafés, studios, galleries and lavatories. Several were given elliptical glass windows about five and a half metres across, weighing a couple of tonnes, which pivot open on a central axis like portholes. 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There are no benches; people sit on the quay itself, in a line, with the river directly below and the city noise passing overhead. It is the one place in the centre where Prague is used at water level rather than looked at from a bridge.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1272\u002Fe0-9919.webp","cs:ŠJů \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":191},"Walk the market the length of the wall","On a Saturday morning, come down and go from one end of the stalls to the other. Producers bring vegetables, cheese, fish and bread onto a quay that used to load barges, with the vault fronts on one side and the water on the other. It runs all year, including in the cold.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1272\u002Fe1-4310.webp","Neslihan_Turan \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[193,198,203,208],{"boxType":194,"title":195,"body":196,"deepBody":197,"sourceNote":150},"history","Cellars for river ice","The vaults in the wall were cut as ice cellars and stores for the traffic that worked the river.","Ice was taken from the Vltava in winter and kept in these cold stone chambers to serve the city through the summer, before refrigeration made the trade pointless. When the quay stopped being a working wharf the vaults were sealed and forgotten, and the shelf above them became a car park. Reopening them restored a function the wall was built with.",{"boxType":199,"title":200,"body":201,"deepBody":202,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","Windows that turn","Elliptical glass discs several metres across close the vault fronts and rotate open on a central pivot.","They are heavy enough to be counted in tonnes and are believed to be the largest rotating windows of this shape anywhere. The design solves a real problem: a listed embankment wall cannot take doors and frames cut into it. The openings were filled with single pieces of glass that turn in place, leaving the wall's profile untouched when they are shut.",{"boxType":204,"title":205,"body":206,"deepBody":207,"sourceNote":150},"local_secret","A floor, not a promenade","The quay has almost no benches, and people sit on the bare stone edge with their feet over the water.","That is deliberate. The rebuilding kept the surface clear so the quay could work as a market on Saturday, a concert floor in summer and an empty stone shelf in winter, without street furniture dictating any of it. It also means the place is completely different at different hours of the same day, which no photograph of it ever conveys.",{"boxType":209,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","The river takes it back","Nothing on the quay is fixed to the stone that could not be lost — the boats move, the market stops, the vault windows seal.","A public space expected to go under water several times a decade is a different design problem from a park, and it is settled here by making the whole floor temporary. 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