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Jan Lukáš Kracker painted the life of St Nicholas across the nave vault in one continuous scene, and František Xaver Palko filled the dome seventy metres above your head. The organ carries more than four thousand pipes, the largest of them six metres long, and Mozart played it in 1787. The bell tower beside the church is a separate building with a separate owner.\n\nThe tower belongs to the city rather than to the church, and after 1925 the rooms inside it were let as an ordinary flat. From 1964 to 1990 the secret police used one near the top to watch the American, West German and British embassies in the streets below. You pass it on the way up: 215 steps to a gallery at sixty-five metres, with the roofs of Malá Strana underneath. 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Then drop your eyes to where the painted dome meets the painted vault of the nave. Two different painters worked either side of that line, and the change of hand shows in the faces once you know to look for it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1244\u002Fe0-6948.webp",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":186},"Climb to the watchers' window","Take the tower stair and stop at the observation room rather than pushing straight up to the gallery. It is a small bare room with one window, and the window looks down into the streets where the western embassies stood. Pick their roofs out of the view and you are doing precisely what the room was kept for.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1244\u002Fe1-2976.webp",{"title":202,"description":203,"imageUrl":204,"attribution":205},"Wait for the organ to be played","If a rehearsal or a service is running, stay for it. The instrument has more than four thousand pipes, the longest of them six metres, and the sound arrives through a room built to carry it. Mozart sat at this organ in 1787, which is the one fact about the church every Prague guide repeats.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1244\u002Fe2-5622.webp","Jirka23 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[207,212,216],{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":150},"history","Why the tower is not the church's","The Jesuit building swallowed the town's old belfry, so a court awarded the townspeople the new tower instead.","That is why one structure has two owners to this day: the archdiocese holds the church, the city holds the tower, and each sells its own ticket at its own door. The arrangement outlived the Jesuits, who were dissolved in 1773, and it survived every change of regime since.",{"boxType":208,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":150},"The room that watched the embassies","From 1964 to 1990 state security officers sat in this tower and logged movement at the western embassies below.","Malá Strana holds the American, German and British missions within a few hundred metres of the tower, and the gallery looks straight down into their streets. The room was fitted out for the job and kept in use until the regime ended. 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