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A spiral ramp built for Hadrian's funeral winds up past prison cells and frescoed papal rooms to a terrace where the city spreads out and the dome of St Peter's stands directly ahead above the rooftops. A bronze angel crowns the top. This rampart is where Puccini's heroine Tosca throws herself to her death. Below, angels modelled on Bernini's designs line the footbridge across the river.\n\nHadrian raised it around 139 AD as a mausoleum for himself and his heirs. When the empire faded, its sheer mass made it a fortress, and popes claimed it, walling it into the Vatican's defences and threading an elevated corridor, the Passetto, from their palace to its keep. In 590, as plague gripped Rome, Pope Gregory reportedly saw the Archangel Michael sheathing his sword above the tomb, and the castle took his name. 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This is the building's original path to its core. Let the gentle, unbroken spiral pull you inward and up, feel the grade underfoot, and notice how little daylight reaches this deep inside the drum.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F661\u002Fe-5154.webp","Ryszard Zaleski \u002F Pexels License — Pexels",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":196},"Time the terrace for the last hour of light","Climb to the highest terrace, at the feet of the bronze angel, in the last hour before sunset. Face west toward St Peter's and watch the great dome and the Tiber catch the light. From here you can also pick out the Passetto, the low brick wall running arrow-straight across the Borgo rooftops, and trace it all the way to the basilica. Then turn slowly and take in the full circle of Roman rooftops below you.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F661\u002Fe-5155.webp","rainhard2 \u002F Pixabay Content License — Pixabay",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":201},"Cross the bridge for the angels","Walk out onto Ponte Sant'Angelo on foot and move slowly between the stone angels lining the parapet, each holding an instrument of the Passion. Stop at the middle of the bridge and look back: the castle's round bulk and its crowning angel line up cleanly over the water.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F661\u002Fe-5156.webp","cains \u002F Pixabay Content License — Pixabay",[203,208,213],{"boxType":204,"title":205,"body":206,"deepBody":207,"sourceNote":9},"legend","Why an angel, and why is it sheathing its sword?","The gesture matters as much as the figure: a blade sliding back into its scabbard, not one being drawn.","The angel is not threatening; it stands down, the blade sliding back to signal the plague was lifting. The figure is not the first. Wind, lightning, and war destroyed a succession of statues in marble and wood, and the current bronze, cast by Verschaffelt in 1753, is roughly the sixth to guard the summit.",{"boxType":209,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":9},"history","The pope's escape route is a wall you can walk","When mutinous troops overran Rome in 1527, one thin rooftop corridor is the only reason the pope reached safety.","The Passetto di Borgo runs about 800 metres from the Vatican Palace to the castle, hidden inside the top of a fortified wall. As imperial soldiers poured through the city during the Sack of 1527, Pope Clement VII hurried along it to shelter in the keep while the Swiss Guard held the line behind him.",{"boxType":209,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":9},"A tomb built for an emperor who is no longer in it","Hadrian designed this drum to hold his dynasty for eternity; almost nothing of them remains inside.","For nearly a century the mausoleum held the urns of emperors from Hadrian to Caracalla and their families. The ashes were scattered and the urns lost during later sieges, when the tomb was stripped bare and rebuilt as a fortress. 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