[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-6fc9a8cd0a10":3,"categories-en":33,"detail-extra-1176":173,"travel-countries-en":311},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":10,"description":18,"countryCode":19,"adminArea":9,"elevationM":9,"bestMonths":20,"tips":21,"howToGetThere":9,"youtubeIds":22,"timezone":28,"cityGuideSlug":29,"cityGuidePublicId":30,"cityGuideName":15,"poiTheme":31,"poiNeighborhood":32},1176,"6fc9a8cd0a10","rome-domus-aurea","Domus Aurea","The buried basement of the palace Nero laid across central Rome, packed with rubble by the emperors who followed and entered now in hard hats.",null,3,12.49528,41.89139,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1176\u002Fcover-a052.webp","Italy","Rome",0,"city_poi","The Domus Aurea is the surviving basement of the palace Nero laid across the middle of Rome after the fire of 64 AD, and it lies underground because later emperors deliberately buried it. He took the burnt ground for himself: courtyards, an artificial lake where the Colosseum now stands, and rooms faced in marble and painted from floor to vault. He was dead within four years, and the emperors who followed set about erasing him. They drained the lake, packed his halls with earth and rubble, and built public baths on top.\n\nYou see it today as a cellar. A guide takes small groups down under a public park in hard hats, along brick corridors where the air stays at about ten degrees Celsius. The route ends in an octagonal room whose concrete dome has a round opening in the middle, and the rooms around it are lit only through that hole. Damp is the constant problem here, so a lightweight garden was built over the site to cut the water coming through, replacing three tonnes of soil per square metre with less than one. Sections still close without warning while the work goes on.","IT",[],"weather|**Dress for ten degrees whatever the month is** — the temperature underground barely moves across the year, and people arrive from a Roman August in shirtsleeves and spend ninety minutes shivering.\naccess|**Book weeks ahead, because tours run only at weekends and fill up early** — entry is by guided tour only, and the ground underfoot is uneven brick with no step-free route.\nlight|**Follow the guide's lamp when you look at the vaults** — the surviving paint is thin and pale, and a beam angled across the plaster brings out figures that you cannot see under flat light.\nhistory|**Look for the joins where later walls cut Nero's rooms in half** — the brickwork that blocks doorways and thickens corners belongs to the baths built on top a generation afterwards.",[23,24,25,26,27],"IvS0aXM1kRs","BtqPJokax1E","7VU9GVshx4U","tn4vdwecmUE","kyZ0hNzROLQ","Europe\u002FRome","rome","ab634ae04324","historic","Rione Monti (Colle Oppio park, Viale della Domus Aurea)",[34,39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,129,133,138,143,148,153,158,163,168],{"id":35,"slug":36,"name":37,"color":38},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":125,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":10,"slug":130,"name":131,"color":132},"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":134,"slug":135,"name":136,"color":137},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":139,"slug":140,"name":141,"color":142},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":144,"slug":145,"name":146,"color":147},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":149,"slug":150,"name":151,"color":152},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":154,"slug":155,"name":156,"color":157},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":159,"slug":160,"name":161,"color":162},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":164,"slug":165,"name":166,"color":167},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":169,"slug":170,"name":171,"color":172},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":174,"exps":186,"boxes":200,"seasons":221,"near":222,"peers":223},[175,177,180,182,184],{"url":13,"attribution":176},"sébastien amiet;l \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1176\u002Fg0-c3c9.webp","User:MatthiasKabel \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":181,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1176\u002Fg1-2974.webp",{"url":183,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1176\u002Fg2-eb08.webp",{"url":185,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1176\u002Fg3-32ee.webp",[187,191,195],{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":179},"Stand under the round opening in the octagon's dome","The route ends in the eight-sided hall. Put yourself in the middle, look up at the round opening in the concrete, and then watch how the light behaves. It drops in one shaft, hits the floor, and only then finds its way into the five rooms opening off the sides.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1176\u002Fe0-a98b.webp",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":176},"Find the signatures the painters left","On some of the vaults, names are scratched into the plaster in fifteenth and sixteenth-century hands. Ask the guide where they are and get close: these are the marks of the men who came down on ropes with torches and went home to paint the ceilings of half of Italy.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1176\u002Fe1-aa29.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"Come up into the park and look back","The visit ends in Colle Oppio, an ordinary city park with dog walkers and benches. Turn round at the top and look at the ground. The low grass mounds and the brick stubs sticking out of them are the baths that were built on top of the palace you have just walked through, burying it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1176\u002Fe2-15de.webp","Shardan \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[201,206,211,216],{"boxType":202,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":9},"history","They tried to delete him and preserved him instead","Nero's successors filled these rooms with rubble to wipe out his palace, and the rubble is what saved the paintings.","The senate condemned his memory after his death in 68 AD. The lake in his palace grounds became the site of a public amphitheatre, the land went back to the city, and Trajan raised a bath complex over the palace wing, using the buried rooms as its foundation. Sealed from air and light, the plaster and pigment survived, while every Roman interior above ground was lost.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":9},"culture","The word grotesque was invented here","Renaissance painters were lowered on ropes into these rooms to copy the decoration, and named the style after the holes they went down.","From about 1480 artists dropped through openings in the vaults with torches, among them Pinturicchio, Filippino Lippi, Signorelli and later Raphael and his workshop. They thought they were in caves — grotte in Italian — so the airy, weightless ornament of trailing plants, masks and small animals became known as grottesche. Several of them scratched their names into the plaster, and the signatures are still on the walls.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":9},"did_you_know","A famous statue came out of this hill","In 1506 a Roman digging in a vineyard on this hillside struck marble, and uncovered a group of a man and two boys fighting snakes.","It was identified within hours as the Laocoön described by the Roman writer Pliny, and the pope's men came to watch it being lifted out of the ground; Michelangelo was among the crowd. The pope bought it inside a month and it went to the Vatican, where it still is. The find turned buried Rome from a source of building stone into something worth digging for.",{"boxType":217,"title":218,"body":219,"deepBody":220,"sourceNote":9},"architecture","A dining room with a hole in the ceiling","The octagonal hall is roofed by a concrete dome with a round opening at its top, and there are no windows in its walls.","Daylight falls through the opening onto the floor and then spreads sideways into the five rooms arranged around the octagon, so each of them is lit second-hand. 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