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Four wings of gallery run round a courtyard inside a palace on the Corso, and the walls are covered from floor to cornice, paintings stacked three and four deep. The family that assembled it still lives on the floor above, and the audio guide is recorded by one of them, so the voice explaining the pictures is talking about his own ancestors.\n\nAt the end of one wing is a small octagonal room holding a single picture. Velázquez painted Innocent X in Rome in 1650, in only a few sittings: the pope looks hard, watchful and red-faced, in a red cape, gripping the arm of his chair. Bernini's marble bust of the same man, carved at about the same time, stands beside it. It is formal and flattering, and it looks like a different person. 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This is how a private collection was displayed before museums existed, when pictures decorated a room as much as they were there to be studied.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1211\u002Fe1-6812.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"Find the two Caravaggios among hundreds of paintings","Two Caravaggios hang in these rooms among hundreds of other canvases, without special lighting or a rope. One shows a rest on a journey with an angel playing a violin, the other a woman weeping in a chair. 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