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Six of the eleven aqueducts that watered ancient Rome ran through this ground, and a seventh, papal one joined them. The tall broken arches are the Aqua Claudia, finished under the emperor Claudius in 52 AD and carrying a second line, the Anio Novus, stacked on top of the first. Lower down, three older channels were built one above another on a single wall. The oldest of all runs underground and shows nothing at the surface.\n\nThe line that still carries water is the newest. In 1585 a pope set out to bring water back to the hills of a shrunken city, and the Acqua Felice was finished two years later, partly on reused Roman arches. So the arches you photograph are dry and the modest ones beside them are working. There is nothing else here: no gate, no ticket office, no café. Sheep graze between the piers, Roman families walk dogs, and the shell of a farmhouse stands in the middle of it. Postwar directors came here to film the edge of the city, and it still looks like the edge of the city.","IT",[100,105,110,161,162],10,11,"timing|**Come in the first hour of light or the last** — the arches are only photogenic when the sun is low behind or across them, and midday flattens the whole field.\nwater|**Carry your own water and expect no shade** — there is no fountain along the aqueduct line and nothing to buy, which is a real problem here in July and August.\nweather|**Skip it for a few days after heavy rain** — the paths are bare earth between the piers and they turn to deep mud that dries slowly.\ndetail|**Look for the channel on top of the arches** — where the masonry is broken you can see the water conduit itself, lined with waterproof plaster and no wider than a person.",[165,166,167,168],"JkF2BaAMPx4","OdOlEO2oF0A","tAJJHpyaNsc","4w8pM6eA50M","Europe\u002FRome","rome","ab634ae04324","park","Appio Claudio (Tuscolano)",{"gallery":175,"exps":190,"boxes":205,"seasons":221,"near":222,"peers":223},[176,178,181,184,187],{"url":153,"attribution":177},"Mantico68 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1194\u002Fg0-d1dd.webp","ShockWave2 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":182,"attribution":183},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1194\u002Fg1-a7b9.webp","Chris 73 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":185,"attribution":186},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1194\u002Fg2-0879.webp","Sara Botti \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":188,"attribution":189},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1194\u002Fg3-f507.webp","Laura Spizzichino \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[191,196,201],{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":195},"Walk the line of the arches","Pick up the path under the tallest arcade and follow it as far as it goes. The arches run in a straight line to the horizon, rising and falling with the ground, and the scale only registers when you have been walking beside them for ten minutes and they are still going.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1194\u002Fe0-54d0.webp","Maurizio Moro5153 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":200},"Stand under an arch at sunrise","Arrive before sunrise and stand directly under one of the arches. At that hour the sun is low and shines straight down the line of arches instead of across them, and the grass is grey with dew. Apart from one jogger and some sheep you will have a kilometre of field to yourself.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1194\u002Fe1-9c99.webp","Stefano Ruzzini \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":202,"description":203,"imageUrl":204,"attribution":183},"Find the three channels stacked on one wall","Away from the big arcade, look for a lower, plainer wall running through the grass. Three separate aqueducts were carried on it, one above another, built more than a century apart. Where the face has fallen away you can see the three conduits in section, like a cut through a pipe.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1194\u002Fe2-2910.webp",[206,211,216],{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","The water flowed downhill, on a very gentle slope","Roman aqueducts had no pumps: the whole system worked on a fall of a few centimetres for every hundred metres of channel.","Surveyors set the slope with levelling tools and held it across tens of kilometres of tunnel, trench and arcade. If it was too steep the rushing water wore away the waterproof lining; if it was too shallow the water stopped moving. The arches were built only where the ground dips, to keep the channel high enough to keep falling.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":150},"history","The aqueduct that still works was built by a pope","Rome had shrunk back to the river bend because the high ground had no water; the pope's new channel is what let it spread again.","Sixtus V ordered the work in 1585 and named the finished aqueduct after himself. It was completed in 1587 and ran partly along stretches of Roman arcade that were still standing, which is why the working channel and the dead ones share the same field.",{"boxType":217,"title":218,"body":219,"deepBody":220,"sourceNote":150},"culture","Directors filmed here to show Rome's poor outskirts","Postwar Italian directors used these fields whenever they needed the raw outskirts rather than the historic city.","In the 1950s and 1960s the housing estates stopped at this line, and beyond it were sheep, mud and ruins. 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