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A poor Spanish order bought the site in the 1630s and gave the job to Francesco Borromini, who was then unknown. He built them a church whose walls curve in and out without a break, so that no two facing surfaces are parallel and no wall is flat. The plan is worked out from overlapping circles and triangles, and the whole interior is white, without a single coloured marble to distract from the shape.\n\nThe oval dome is the best part of the interior. It is coffered with interlocking crosses, hexagons and octagons that shrink as they climb, so the vault looks far higher than it really is, and the light comes from windows hidden at its base. Borromini finished the interior in 1641 and was still working on the street front when he died in 1667; his nephew completed it. 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The light comes from behind the cornice with no opening you can see. Then step two paces to the side and watch the illusion break.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1200\u002Fe0-fb04.webp",{"title":190,"description":191,"imageUrl":192,"attribution":193},"Follow the curving wall with your hand","Follow the base of the wall around the interior, keeping your fingers on the moulding. It never runs straight for more than a metre or so: in, out, round a column, in again. This is a room you understand better by touch and by walking than by standing still and looking.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1200\u002Fe1-f687.webp","sailko \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":198},"Go down to the crypt","A stair leads down to a low white crypt that repeats the curving plan of the church above at half size, with a small side chapel that has an irregular floor. Visitors rarely come down here. 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