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It shows men treading grapes, carts bringing in the harvest, birds, branches, jugs and geometric panels — what a rich Roman house of the time would have had on its walls. These are the oldest Christian mosaics surviving in place in Rome. It was built between about 340 and 345 for a daughter of Constantine.\n\nA hundred and thirty metres away stands the basilica of Sant'Agnese, built in the 620s over the grave of a girl executed in the persecutions. You reach it down a long staircase lined with early Christian inscriptions, cut in the seventh century to bring pilgrims to the church, which stands at the level of the cemetery it was built over. The apse mosaic shows Agnes standing in gold with flames at her feet, and the catacomb galleries run under the floor. 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Then do it again slowly. Each section of the vault carries a different pattern: vines with figures, scattered birds and vessels, then bands of pure geometry. The mosaics were laid in the fourth century, before anyone had settled what a Christian building should look like.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1207\u002Fe0-0967.webp",{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":191},"Read the gravestones on the way down","The way into the basilica is a long straight staircase running down under a barrel vault, with fragments of early Christian gravestones set into the walls on both sides. Read a few as you descend: names, ages, doves, an anchor. The stairs end at the church floor, which lies at the level of the old burial ground the basilica was built over.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1207\u002Fe1-69eb.webp","MumblerJamie \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":177},"Find Saint Agnes in the gold mosaic","The mosaic in the half-dome dates from the seventh century and is deliberately plain: a girl standing alone on a gold background in imperial dress, with a sword at her feet and flames on either side. A pope stands on each side of her, each holding a model of a building. The mausoleum's vault is covered in harvest scenes and birds, while here there is one saint on bare gold, made to be looked at as a holy figure rather than as decoration.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1207\u002Fe2-231a.webp",[197,202,207],{"boxType":198,"title":199,"body":200,"deepBody":201,"sourceNote":150},"history","Christian art before it had its own imagery","The vault here was made when Christian imagery barely existed, so its makers used the ordinary decoration of a wealthy Roman house.","Grape harvests, birds, vine scrolls and panels of geometry were what anyone wealthy put on a good ceiling in the fourth century, whatever they believed. The grape-harvest scenes can be read as a Christian symbol or simply as a common Roman pattern, and both readings made sense at the time. 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The sarcophagus of purple porphyry stone that stood there was moved to the Vatican in the eighteenth century, so the space the building was made to hold now stands empty.",{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","The lambs blessed here become archbishops' wool bands","Every year on 21 January lambs are blessed in the basilica here, and their wool is woven into the bands new archbishops receive.","The saint's name resembles the Latin for lamb, which is where the custom comes from. The animals are raised by a monastery, blessed at this altar, and the wool is spun by nuns into narrow white bands worn over the shoulders. 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