[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-42d28e3807de":3,"categories-en":29,"detail-extra-1186":169,"travel-countries-en":301},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":10,"description":18,"countryCode":19,"adminArea":9,"elevationM":9,"bestMonths":20,"tips":21,"howToGetThere":9,"youtubeIds":22,"timezone":24,"cityGuideSlug":25,"cityGuidePublicId":26,"cityGuideName":15,"poiTheme":27,"poiNeighborhood":28},1186,"42d28e3807de","rome-testaccio","Testaccio","A working Roman quarter of 1880s courtyard blocks beside a thirty-five-metre hill built entirely from fifty-three million broken oil jars.",null,3,12.4739,41.8761,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1186\u002Fcover-4770.webp","Italy","Rome",0,"city_poi","Testaccio sits beside a hill that Rome made out of its own rubbish. For about three centuries, the oil arriving at the river port here came in heavy clay jars from southern Spain that could not be reused, because the clay soaked up the oil and turned rancid. The empty jars were broken up and stacked on the spot, laid in ordered terraces with lime thrown over them, until the pile stood thirty-five metres high. Roughly fifty-three million jars are estimated to be inside it. The mound is grassed over and fenced, and from the street it looks like an ordinary green hill.\n\nThe quarter around it is much younger. It was laid out from the 1880s for the men who worked the river port and the city slaughterhouse, in plain blocks around courtyards, and it still feels like a working district rather than a historic one. The covered market at its centre trades in the morning and shuts by mid-afternoon. The slaughterhouse closed in 1975 and its long low sheds are now used for exhibitions, but its legacy is on every menu in the quarter: the offal cuts that its workers took home as part of their wages.","IT",[],"timing|**Get to the market before one in the afternoon** — it closes by mid-afternoon and does not open on Sunday, and the quarter is very quiet without it.\naccess|**You cannot simply climb the hill** — Monte Testaccio is fenced, and the only way up is a guided visit booked through the city, which is often unavailable for months.\ntaste|**Order the cut you would normally avoid** — oxtail, tripe and sweetbreads are the dishes this quarter invented, and they are cooked better here than in the centre because they have never left the local kitchens.\ndetail|**Look through the fence at the base of the hill** — where the ground has been cut back you can see the pot sherds packed edge to edge, and the handles and rims are easy to pick out.",[23],"RrUOVUEs-BM","Europe\u002FRome","rome","ab634ae04324","neighborhood","Testaccio (Rione XX)",[30,35,40,45,50,55,60,65,70,75,80,85,90,95,100,105,110,115,120,125,129,134,139,144,149,154,159,164],{"id":31,"slug":32,"name":33,"color":34},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":36,"slug":37,"name":38,"color":39},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":41,"slug":42,"name":43,"color":44},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":46,"slug":47,"name":48,"color":49},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":51,"slug":52,"name":53,"color":54},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":56,"slug":57,"name":58,"color":59},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":61,"slug":62,"name":63,"color":64},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":66,"slug":67,"name":68,"color":69},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":71,"slug":72,"name":73,"color":74},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":76,"slug":77,"name":78,"color":79},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":81,"slug":82,"name":83,"color":84},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":86,"slug":87,"name":88,"color":89},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":91,"slug":92,"name":93,"color":94},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":96,"slug":97,"name":98,"color":99},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":101,"slug":102,"name":103,"color":104},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":106,"slug":107,"name":108,"color":109},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":111,"slug":112,"name":113,"color":114},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":116,"slug":117,"name":118,"color":119},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":121,"slug":122,"name":123,"color":124},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":10,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":130,"slug":131,"name":132,"color":133},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":135,"slug":136,"name":137,"color":138},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":140,"slug":141,"name":142,"color":143},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":145,"slug":146,"name":147,"color":148},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":150,"slug":151,"name":152,"color":153},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":155,"slug":156,"name":157,"color":158},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":160,"slug":161,"name":162,"color":163},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":165,"slug":166,"name":167,"color":168},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":170,"exps":181,"boxes":195,"seasons":211,"near":212,"peers":213},[171,173,176,178],{"url":13,"attribution":172},"Flazaza \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":174,"attribution":175},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1186\u002Fg0-b83c.webp","Lalupa \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":177,"attribution":175},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1186\u002Fg1-9562.webp",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1186\u002Fg2-e98a.webp","shu tu \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[182,186,190],{"title":183,"description":184,"imageUrl":185,"attribution":175},"Walk the covered market at nine in the morning","The covered market is a modern hall built over an excavation, with an ancient road visible under glass in the floor. Go early, walk the whole circuit before you buy anything, and notice which stalls the local shoppers are queueing at; those are the ones to buy from, and they are seldom the stalls with English signs.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1186\u002Fe0-3fc5.webp",{"title":187,"description":188,"imageUrl":189,"attribution":175},"Walk right around the outside of the pottery hill","You cannot go up without a booked visit, but you can walk right round the base in twenty minutes. The fence runs close to the slope in places, and where the earth has slipped you can see straight into the packed pot fragments. Grass and ivy cover the top, so from the street it looks like an ordinary hill, but the bare sides show what it is made of.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1186\u002Fe1-dfae.webp",{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":194},"Look into the old slaughterhouse yards","The Mattatoio is a long range of iron-and-brick sheds along the river side of the quarter, with the cattle ramps and pens still in place. When an exhibition is on you can walk through them; when it is not, the gates and the yards are still worth seeing from outside.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1186\u002Fe2-452a.webp","Nicholas Gemini \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[196,201,206],{"boxType":197,"title":198,"body":199,"deepBody":200,"sourceNote":9},"history","What is written on the broken jars","Many of the sherds still carry stamps and painted notes giving the producer, the weight, and the year the oil was shipped.","That turns a rubbish heap into an archive: no other source records the Roman oil trade in this detail, supplier by supplier and season by season. Excavation also showed how carefully the pile was built — sherds set as retaining walls, layers kept flat, lime worked through to hold down the smell.",{"boxType":202,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":9},"food","The offal the workers were paid in","Roman offal cooking was invented here, because slaughterhouse workers were paid partly in the parts nobody else wanted.","The animal was divided into four quarters that went to the nobility, the clergy, the middle classes and the soldiers. What was left — tail, tripe, sweetbreads, heart and lungs — was called the fifth quarter and went home with the men who did the killing. 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