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You walk here on sampietrini, the small black cobbles that ripple underfoot, past ochre walls furred with ivy and shuttered artisan workshops. The street plan survived where grander Rome was rebuilt, so the lanes still bend and narrow without logic. At its heart the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere claims one of the oldest sites of open Christian worship in the city, its façade lit by gold mosaics.\n\nThe name means across the Tiber, and for centuries that river was a social border; the people on the far bank came to think of themselves as the truest Romans of all. The quarter grew up outside the ancient city as a working district of sailors, dockhands and foreign traders, and it kept a character apart: crowded, self-contained, a little rough. Mornings are quiet and domestic, all laundry, espresso and a delivery scooter in a doorway. 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The climb is short, the church door is free, and the rooftops of the quarter fall away below you on the way up.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F683\u002Fe-5163.webp","Cristian Manieri \u002F Pexels License — Pexels",[201,206,211],{"boxType":202,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":9},"culture","Why Trastevere keeps a July festival just for 'us others'","Every July the quarter honours its own patron with a name that quietly sets it apart from the rest of Rome.","The Festa de' Noantri — Romanesco for 'the festival of us others' — fills the lanes each July, a tradition rooted in the 1500s, when fishermen were said to have pulled a Madonna statue from the Tiber. 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