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It is a cemetery road of the first and second centuries, lined with small brick family mausolea that still have their painted walls, their stucco ceilings and the names of the families cut over the doors. Most of the people buried in it were not Christians: freedmen, traders and imperial servants who bought a plot on a hillside outside the city. Their tombs carry peacocks, vines, and in one case a figure driving a chariot of the sun.\n\nConstantine's builders cut the hillside away, filled the tombs with earth and set the first basilica on top. They took that on in order to put the altar directly over one particular grave. Excavations between 1939 and 1949 uncovered the street, a red wall, and beside it a second wall covered in scratched prayers. In a cavity in that wall were the bones of a man of sixty or seventy, wrapped in cloth of purple and gold. 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Look into them as you pass: painted ceilings, stucco, mosaic floors, niches for ash urns. You are moving along a street at its original level, with the weight of the largest church in the world directly overhead.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1212\u002Fe0-310d.webp",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":179},"Read the tomb inscriptions as deeds","The inscriptions in each mausoleum are legal texts as much as memorials. They set out who may be buried inside and who may not, and many give the plot's measurements in Roman feet, frontage and depth, exactly as a deed would. 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