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Rabaul harbour is the flooded crater of a much larger volcano, with Tavurvur and its twin Vulcan on opposite sides of the bay, and in 1994 both erupted together after the ground had been rising for years, so that the town was evacuated in time and lost only a handful of lives but most of its buildings, which stand under metres of grey ash with the new capital moved to Kokopo; in the Second World War Japan made the flooded crater its main South Seas base, with as many as 100,000 personnel around the bay and tunnels dug into every hill. The crossing starts at Matupit, the Tolai village closest to the cone, where outriggers and small open boats put out across the water to the black beach at its foot.\n\nThe climb works up loose grey scoria that slides back half a step for every step, with the gases of the vents sharp in the air, to a rim over a crater that steams and rumbles, and the bay, the ruined town and the green ridges of the caldera lie below. On the hot black sand at the foot, from May to October, the Matupit men spend their mornings shoulder-deep in pits dug into the volcano-warmed ash, lifting out the eggs of the Melanesian scrubfowl, a bird that builds no nest and sits on nothing but buries its eggs for the volcano to brood; the digging rights pass down the families. Tavurvur is a volcano that took a town, and the birds trust it with their eggs.","PG",688,[110,115,120,125,162,163],9,10,"safety|**Go with a local guide and check the Rabaul Volcano Observatory's alert stage first** — this is a live vent, and the climb closes whenever activity picks up.\nmonths|**The southeast trades from May to October give the calmest crossing** — in the wet months the bay chops up and cloud sits on the cone all morning.\nwater|**The black beach is far hotter than it looks** — hot springs seep into the shallows, so test the sand and the water before you put a bare foot down.\nwildlife|**Only Matupit villagers may dig the egg fields** — watch from a distance, ask before you photograph anyone, and buy a few eggs rather than walking over the diggings.\naccess|**Ash gets into everything** — closed shoes, a dust mask and a sealed bag for your camera matter more here than a rain jacket.",[166,167,168],"ArBbgPUQ0Pw","dQZBotdKoI0","KWRLpFS-S7k",{"gallery":170,"exps":185,"boxes":197,"seasons":212,"near":234,"peers":235},[171,173,176,179,181,183],{"url":152,"attribution":172},"Foto: Taro Taylor (düzenleme: Richard Bartz) \u002F CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":174,"attribution":175},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F521\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: Dr Peter James Chisholm \u002F CC0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":177,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F521\u002Fg1.webp","Foto: Taro Taylor \u002F CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":180,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F521\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":182,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F521\u002Fg3.webp",{"url":184,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F521\u002Fg4.webp",[186,190,194],{"title":187,"description":188,"imageUrl":189,"attribution":178},"Cross the drowned caldera to the cone","The crossing starts at Matupit, the Tolai village closest to the cone, where outriggers and small open boats put out alongside the ones from Rabaul. Halfway over, the ring of green cones around the harbour lines up behind you and Tavurvur's bare grey slope fills the view ahead.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F521\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":175},"Climb the ash cone to its crater rim","With a guide, you work up loose grey scoria that slides back half a step for every step you take. At the top the rim gives off heat you can feel through your soles, the smell of sulphur is sharp, and the whole ring of cones opens out around the bay.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F521\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":157,"attribution":157},"Meet the egg diggers on the hot black sand","From May to October, Matupit men spend their mornings shoulder-deep in pits dug into the volcano-warmed ash, lifting out scrubfowl eggs. Apart from the climb, it is the only thing that happens on this cone, and it goes on whether or not a boatload of visitors turns up.",[198,203,208],{"boxType":199,"title":200,"body":201,"deepBody":202,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","The bird that lets the volcano brood","The Melanesian scrubfowl builds no nest and sits on nothing. It buries its eggs in ground the volcano holds at around 33°C, then walks away.","Each egg goes about two metres down into warm ash. The chick hatches underground, digs its own way out and can fly almost at once, never meeting a parent. Villagers say the birds moved onto Tavurvur's fresh ash fields after the 1994 eruption, which is why the diggers now work at the volcano's foot.",{"boxType":204,"title":205,"body":206,"deepBody":207,"sourceNote":157},"history","Why Rabaul knew to run","The town's lucky escape in 1994 was learned the hard way: the same pair of cones erupted in 1937 and killed 507 people.","That disaster led to the founding of the Rabaul Volcano Observatory, which has watched the caldera ever since. When earthquakes shook the peninsula on 18 September 1994, townspeople and villagers acted on decades of warnings and drills and left overnight; the eruption came the next morning.",{"boxType":204,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":157},"A fleet parked inside a volcano","In the Second World War Japan made this flooded crater its main South Seas base, with as many as 100,000 personnel stationed around the bay.","Allied bombing sank ships where they lay: more than 60 wrecks still rest on the harbour floor and are dived today. The garrison went underground into a tunnel network reported to run for hundreds of kilometres, cut largely by prisoners and forced labourers, many of whom died doing it. Barge tunnels still open onto the shore near Rabaul.",[213,218,224,229],{"phenomenon":214,"peakMonths":215,"note":216,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":90},"birds",[110,115,120,125,162,163],"Melanesian scrubfowl lay in the volcano-warmed ash at Tavurvur's foot from May to October, and the Matupit egg diggers work the black beach through those same months.",false,{"phenomenon":219,"peakMonths":220,"note":222,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":223},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,100,105,221,130],11,"Nothing shuts by the calendar — boatmen still cross on calm mornings — but the northwest monsoon chops the bay and cloud sits on the cone until midday, rain peaks near March, and the egg fields lie empty.",50,{"phenomenon":225,"peakMonths":226,"note":227,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":228},"chapter_peak",[110,115,120,125,162,163],"The southeast trades flatten Simpson Harbour, so the dawn crossing is smooth and the cone stays clear all 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