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The caldera is Las Cañadas, the collapsed shell of an older volcano, and the road runs across its floor through red and ochre lava fields, black cinder cones and rock towers, a landscape so like Mars that space agencies bring their rovers here to practise before launch. A cable car lifts you from 2,356 metres to La Rambleta at 3,555 in about eight minutes, past twisted lava into thin, bright air; the last 160 metres to the crater rim, the Telesforo Bravo trail, need a permit issued weeks ahead, and the summit smells of sulphur and looks down on the neighbouring islands standing out of the cloud.\n\nThe Guanche, the people of Tenerife before the Spanish, called the mountain Echeyde, hell, and believed a demon named Guayota lived inside it; the last eruption was in 1909, on the flank. On the caldera floor the Roques de García are a row of wind-sculpted pillars, and the slender Roque Cinchado, leaning against the distant cone, is the most photographed view on the island; a circular trail loops beneath them. In late spring the grey caldera flushes red with tajinaste, a plant that grows only on Tenerife, building for years as a rosette of silver leaves and then shooting up a single three-metre spike of red flowers, setting seed and dying. As the sun drops, the lava walls of Las Cañadas deepen to copper and the shadow of Teide stretches as a perfect triangle across the plain and out over the sea. Then the sky takes over: the park has more than 300 clear nights a year and one of the darkest skies in Europe, and the Milky Way shows to the naked eye above the peak. 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From there a steep permit-only path switchbacks the final stretch to the crater rim at 3,715 metres, the highest point in Spain. The permit is free but capped at a couple of hundred people a day and books out weeks ahead. At the top the ground still steams faintly with sulphur.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F231\u002Fe2.webp","Boris Busorgin \u002F Unsplash",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":198},"Loop the rock towers of Roques de García","Walk the circular trail beneath these wind-sculpted pillars, where the slender Roque Cinchado leans against the distant cone of Teide in Tenerife's most photographed view. The layered, twisted rock underfoot records one eruption stacked on another.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F231\u002Fe3.webp","Lukas Medvedevas \u002F Pexels",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":203},"Catch the caldera at golden hour","As the sun drops, the red-and-ochre lava walls of Las Cañadas deepen to burning copper and the shadow of Teide stretches across the plain. On many evenings the sea of clouds below turns pink, and the peak seems to float above it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F231\u002Fe5.webp","Mike Marchetti \u002F Pexels",{"title":205,"description":206,"imageUrl":157,"attribution":157},"Trace the Milky Way over the Teide Observatory","Under one of Europe's darkest skies, with more than 300 clear nights a year, the stars come out in numbers you never see from a city. From spring to autumn the bright core of the Milky Way arcs over the caldera, the same sky the Teide Observatory was built to study.",[208,213,218],{"boxType":209,"title":210,"body":211,"deepBody":212,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","Rehearsing for Mars","The park's red, wind-blasted rock is such a good stand-in for Mars that space agencies bring their rovers here to practise before launch.","In 2010 a team tested the Raman spectrometer later flown on ESA's ExoMars; in 2017 ESA drove planetary rovers through the Las Minas de San José lava field, and instruments bound for NASA's Perseverance were trialled here too. The same lunar-looking terrain has doubled for prehistoric and alien worlds in films from One Million Years B.C. to Clash of the Titans.",{"boxType":214,"title":215,"body":216,"deepBody":217,"sourceNote":157},"legend","Guayota's prison","The Guanche, Tenerife's people before the Spanish, called the volcano Echeyde — hell — and believed a demon named Guayota lived inside it.","In the legend Guayota kidnapped Magec, the god of light, and dragged him into Teide, plunging the world into darkness. The supreme god Achamán forced the demon to free him and sealed the crater with a plug. The Guanche saw that plug in the pale cone of hardened rock still capping the summit today.",{"boxType":219,"title":220,"body":221,"deepBody":222,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","The flower that blooms once","The tajinaste builds for two or more years as a rosette of narrow silvery leaves, then shoots up a single three-metre red spike in one spring, sets seed and dies.","Packed with thousands of tiny flowers, that spike becomes the main summer food source for the park's bees and native insects. Reaching up to three metres, the plant is a classic example of island gigantism, where isolated species evolve far larger than their mainland relatives.",[224,229,234,239,244,249,253,257],{"phenomenon":225,"peakMonths":226,"note":227,"requiresDarkSky":228,"sortOrder":90},"milkyway",[105,110,115,120,125,162],"With over 300 clear nights a year and a certified Starlight Reserve sky, the Milky Way's core shows to the naked eye above the peak.",true,{"phenomenon":230,"peakMonths":231,"note":232,"requiresDarkSky":233,"sortOrder":95},"wildflower",[110,115],"In late spring the grey caldera flushes red with tajinaste, a three-metre flower spike that grows only on Tenerife.",false,{"phenomenon":235,"peakMonths":236,"note":237,"requiresDarkSky":233,"sortOrder":238},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,130],"The caldera is at its coldest, averaging around 5°C at Izaña. Snow can dust the lava and shut the TF-21 and TF-24 access roads and the cable car for days. Nights are long and dark, but the Milky Way's core has not yet risen.",50,{"phenomenon":240,"peakMonths":241,"note":242,"requiresDarkSky":233,"sortOrder":243},"chapter_edge",[100,105],"Winter loosens its grip: days warm, the cable car's hours lengthen from late March, and the Milky Way's core returns low in the pre-dawn sky. The tajinaste is not out yet, and a late-March snowfall can still close the roads.",51,{"phenomenon":245,"peakMonths":246,"note":247,"requiresDarkSky":233,"sortOrder":248},"chapter_peak",[110,115],"The tajinaste bloom peaks from mid-May into early June. Nights are dark and mild, with the Milky Way's core now climbing after midnight.",52,{"phenomenon":245,"peakMonths":250,"note":251,"requiresDarkSky":233,"sortOrder":252},[120,125,162],"High summer is the park at its fullest: skies at their driest and clearest, the cable car on its longest hours, and the trade-wind sea of clouds most reliable below the peak. The Milky Way's core rides highest — the prime stargazing window.",53,{"phenomenon":240,"peakMonths":254,"note":255,"requiresDarkSky":233,"sortOrder":256},[163,164],"The flowering season is long over, and the Milky Way's core now sets low in the western dusk. The cable car's hours shorten through October. The first Atlantic fronts return, rain grows more frequent, and early snow can dust the summit before winter proper.",54,{"phenomenon":258,"peakMonths":259,"note":260,"requiresDarkSky":233,"sortOrder":261},"baseline",[],"Teide floats above a sea of cloud year-round; late-spring tajinaste blooms and dark, clear nights are the seasonal peaks, and winter can bury the caldera in 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