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He dated it 6 October 1802, added a postscript four days later, and never sent it. It is called the Heiligenstadt Testament, though it is a letter and not a will, and it lay among his papers until friends found it after his death. He had come out to this wine village that spring on a doctor's advice.\n\nThe doctor was Johann Adam Schmidt, an eye and ear specialist who hoped the village's mineral bath would help. It did not. The building was a country baker's house around a small courtyard, and the city opened rooms in it as a memorial in 1970. The letter on show is a reproduction, because the original has been in a Hamburg library since 1888. The strongest thing here is a listening station that plays music through Beethoven's hearing as it failed, until almost nothing comes through.","AT",[],"pace|**Give the walk more time than the rooms** — The exhibition goes quickly. Afterwards head uphill along the stream rather than back to the tram — that path is what people remember.\ndetail|**Look for the blank space** — In the letter he left a gap where his younger brother's name should be. Scholars still argue whether he was unsure of the name or angry.\natmosphere|**Sit in the courtyard before going in** — It is the one part of the site that still works as a house: benches, an apple tree, doors opening straight onto stairs.\nweather|**Keep the stream path for daylight** — It has no lighting and goes muddy in places after rain, and villas now stand behind the trees on both banks.\naccess|**Count on stairs** — The rooms sit on different levels with no lift, the entrance has a raised threshold, and a pushchair or wheelchair will not get past the first room.",[],"Europe\u002FVienna","vienna","70df17b9db59","historic","Döbling (19th)",{"gallery":30,"exps":44,"boxes":54,"seasons":75,"near":76,"peers":77},[31,33,36,39,41],{"url":13,"attribution":32},"Hans Weingartz \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":34,"attribution":35},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1117\u002Fg0-4607.webp","Chosparak \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":37,"attribution":38},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1117\u002Fg1-49ba.webp","Kepler 62 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":40,"attribution":35},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1117\u002Fg2-e8c1.webp",{"url":42,"attribution":43},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1117\u002Fg3-8b8c.webp","Clemens \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[45,49],{"title":46,"description":47,"imageUrl":48,"attribution":35},"Stand in the courtyard and pick the room","Village talk written down in 1890 described a garden flat reached by a wooden stair from this courtyard. Stand at the bottom and pick the door it must have been — building research points to the upper flat on the right. It is the closest anyone gets to the room.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1117\u002Fe1-e8ab.webp",{"title":50,"description":51,"imageUrl":52,"attribution":53},"Follow the stream to the first monument they built him","From the museum, head uphill to the Beethovengang and follow the Schreiberbach until the houses thin. In a clearing called the Beethovenruhe, opposite Kahlenberger Strasse 69, an oversized bronze head on a stone block faces back down the valley. It was cast in 1862, the earliest Beethoven monument anywhere near Vienna.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1117\u002Fe2-78ba.webp","Herbert Josl \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[55,60,65,70],{"boxType":56,"title":57,"body":58,"deepBody":59,"sourceNote":9},"history","The rooms are younger than the letter","The wing that holds the memorial was rebuilt in 1807, five years after Beethoven wrote the letter here.","Walther Brauneis, for four decades secretary of the Vienna Beethoven Society, showed that this wing was put up in 1807, after a major fire. Nobody disputes that Beethoven lodged in Heiligenstadt that autumn, and the address has been accepted since the nineteenth century. What is uncertain is whether any of the fabric around you stood while he was here.",{"boxType":61,"title":62,"body":63,"deepBody":64,"sourceNote":9},"did_you_know","The cheerful symphony was already finished","Guidebooks pair the Second Symphony's high spirits with this crisis. Sketch studies show he had finished it months earlier.","The Beethoven-Haus in Bonn traced the confusion to wrong dates in nineteenth-century biographies. What he really wrote here that autumn were three piano sonatas and two sets of variations. He told his publisher in October 1802 that both variation sets were worked out in a wholly new style.",{"boxType":66,"title":67,"body":68,"deepBody":69,"sourceNote":9},"culture","Before the museum, a bathhouse","Heiligenstadt was a bathing resort. Vienna's better-off moved out to villages like this one every summer, away from the heat.","A neighbour with rheumatism channelled a rediscovered spring into his garden in 1781 and built a bathhouse. A doctor's analysis three years later recommended the water for rheumatism and skin complaints, and up to three hundred guests came a day. 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