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The room is the reason to come: slender marble columns fanning into ribbed vaults, more like a chapter house than a café. The waiters keep the old arrangement — order one coffee and stay, with the day's newspapers on wooden frames and nobody hovering. A melange arrives on a small silver tray with a glass of water beside it.\n\nIt opened in 1876 in the Palais Ferstel, shut in 1943, and did not come back for more than thirty years. In between it was the working address of intellectual Vienna. Trotsky played chess here. The poet Peter Altenberg used the café as his postal address, and now sits by the door in papier-mâché. None of that is why it works today. 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