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Stand on 12.-Februar-Platz and the centre of it rises into six towers over wide arches, ochre and iron-oxide red. Vienna's Social Democratic council put it up between 1927 and 1930 to plans by Karl Ehn, a pupil of Otto Wagner. The 1,382 flats were small, about forty square metres: a living-kitchen, one room, running water, their own lavatory.\n\nNone had a bathroom. You washed in one of the two bath houses and did the laundry in one of the two laundries, because the plan was to move housework downstairs, next to the kindergartens, the library and the pharmacy. In February 1934 the federal army brought artillery against the block during four days of civil war, and it gave in on the fifteenth. 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Josef Franz Riedl made them in 1930, and they stand for Enlightenment, Liberation, Child Welfare and Physical Culture. Then go through one of the arches into the courtyard behind, where the street noise stops within a few steps among old trees, benches and prams, and Otto Hofner's bronze sower stands. Look up at the rear elevations: most of these flats were given a balcony or a loggia, which was rare in 1930.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1115\u002Fe0-5d1a.webp",{"title":189,"description":190,"imageUrl":191,"attribution":174},"Walk the length until the drama runs out","Start at the towers in the middle and follow the front north or south. The monumental part ends quickly and the block runs on for hundreds of metres as plain, low housing with shops and doorways along it. That plain stretch is what nearly everyone here actually lives in.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1115\u002Fe2-9ff2.webp",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":174},"Stand in a laundry that is still a laundry","Find Waschsalon No. 2 inside the complex and go in on one of the two half-days a week it opens. The ground floor still washes clothes for the block, and the exhibition on Red Vienna sits directly above it. Standing between the two is the clearest way to understand what a shared laundry was for in a building whose flats had no bathrooms.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1115\u002Fe3-a639.webp",[197,202,206,211],{"boxType":198,"title":199,"body":200,"deepBody":201,"sourceNote":150},"history","The tax that built it","A tax on rents paid for the whole programme, and the heaviest 0.5 per cent of buildings gave nearly half the take.","Vienna's council introduced the housing tax in January 1923 and pitched it steeply, so grand apartment houses paid many times what a small flat did. Hugo Breitner, the finance chief, added taxes on cars, horses and servants. Some 64,000 flats went up without borrowing, and in the late 1990s the city was still turning old gas holders into subsidised flats.",{"boxType":198,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":150},"The fortress that was never a fortress","No part of this block was designed for defence; the arches, courtyards and open ground were planned for light, air and play.","After the army brought artillery against it in February 1934, both sides found the fortress story useful. The historian Kurt Bauer counted more than 350 dead across Austria that month, most of them bystanders hit in the street. Only eleven were killed by artillery and mortars in the whole rising, because the guns were fired sparingly and after warnings.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","Renamed after the officer who took it","After the fighting the block was renamed Biedermannhof, after Karl Biedermann, who led the troops that stormed it.","The Austrofascist government changed the name again in 1935, to Heiligenstädter Hof, and the Nazis kept that; the original name came back in 1945. Biedermann joined the Wehrmacht, commanded its patrol force in Vienna, and was publicly hanged in April 1945 for trying to hand the city to the Red Army.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":150},"etiquette","Whose doorstep this is","The arches and courtyards are open public passage in daylight, but the staircases, the flats and the balconies are private.","The city has kept the place in use as ordinary rented housing for nearly a century. 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