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The fortress was called Vindobona, and about six thousand men lived behind a wall of roughly 400 by 500 metres whose outline survives in the street plan of the old town. Both houses belonged to tribunes, the senior officers of a legion. One had a colonnaded courtyard and heating in its floors and walls; the other made do with less, so the difference in rank is visible.\n\nThey came to light in 1948, when the square was being rebuilt after wartime bombing and a sewer trench cut across them. A staircase takes you down to a walkway over the stonework, where short brick pillars still stand where they once carried a heated floor. Where later walls had to be removed, their line is painted white on the ground. Archaeologists know the Roman walls run on under the whole square, and only this one basement has been opened up.","AT",[],"pace|**Spend your time in the basement** — the two upper floors are reconstructions and small everyday objects, and the stonework downstairs is the only thing in the building that is not a copy or a screen.\ncrowds|**Few people come down the stairs** — the square above is one of the busier crossings in the old town, but the ruins below it stay quiet enough to linger over.\ndetail|**Find the carved drain cover among the finds** — the fortress had a working sewer system, and one of its stone grating slabs survives, cut with slots by a mason nearly two thousand years ago.\nfamily|**Let children handle the replicas** — there is a hand mill to turn, pottery to fit back together and objects made to be touched, which makes this an easier Roman site for young visitors than a fenced excavation.\norientation|**Look for a silver shopfront, not a doorway** — The front is a plain metal-clad window on the square, and the ruins lie below rather than behind it, so you go down.",[],"Europe\u002FVienna","vienna","70df17b9db59","historic","Innere Stadt (1st)",{"gallery":169,"exps":181,"boxes":195,"seasons":216,"near":217,"peers":218},[170,172,175,177,179],{"url":153,"attribution":171},"C.Stadler\u002FBwag \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":173,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1120\u002Fg0-3768.webp","Gryffindor \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":176,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1120\u002Fg1-5a1e.webp",{"url":178,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1120\u002Fg2-4dc1.webp",{"url":180,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1120\u002Fg3-db03.webp",[182,187,191],{"title":183,"description":184,"imageUrl":185,"attribution":186},"Walk the fortress outline at street level","Leave the museum and go west into Tiefer Graben. The street drops away under you, because you are crossing the camp's western ditch. Follow Naglergasse round to the Graben, which runs along the southern ditch, then head east and come back up Rotenturmstraße, the eastern side. Twenty minutes and you have walked the wall.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1120\u002Fe0-c140.webp","D. HerdemertenHannibal21 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":174},"Find the pillars that held up a warm floor","Downstairs, look for the field of short brick stacks set close together in one room. The floor they carried is gone, so you are looking straight into the cavity where hot air ran from a furnace. Rooms were heated from underneath this way, and this one belonged to the senior of the two officers.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1120\u002Fe1-7dfd.webp",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":174},"Read the rebuilds in one wall","Pick a single run of stonework and follow it from end to end. These houses were repaired and rebuilt from the late first century to the early fifth, so within one wall the stones change size, the mortar changes colour, and a straight course stops and starts again lower down.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1120\u002Fe2-c177.webp",[196,201,206,211],{"boxType":197,"title":198,"body":199,"deepBody":200,"sourceNote":150},"history","The rest of the fortress is still under the pavement","In 2012 a water-main trench across Hoher Markt hit Roman walls at 1.7 metres down, along most of its length.","City archaeologists followed the diggers and recorded officers' house walls both west and east of the museum, plus pink mortar floors belonging to the legionary baths. Their report concludes that metre-high Roman walls survive across the whole square, except where heating pipes cut through. The square above is in daily use, so it stays buried.",{"boxType":202,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":150},"architecture","The fortress wall became the city wall","The Romans left their wall standing, and around 1156 the Babenberg dukes rebuilt it as medieval Vienna's own defence.","They also quarried the ruins for building stone. In the 2012 trench, archaeologists found Roman ashlar blocks reset without mortar in a medieval layer, packed around a spruce beam whose last growth ring dates to 1198. Vienna outgrew that line soon afterwards, and the wall itself has gone, but the streets above still run where it ran.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","The emperor who may not have died here","Tradition puts Marcus Aurelius's death at Vindobona in March 180, and Vienna named the street beside this square after him.","The ancient writers disagree. Aurelius Victor places the death here. Tertullian places it at Sirmium, in what is now Serbia. Scholars have argued the case ever since, most recently in a 2023 paper in the journal Historia that reweighed both the texts and the archaeology. What is certain is only that he campaigned on this stretch of the Danube.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":150},"culture","A Roman leads the parade on the clock outside","Marcus Aurelius takes the first hour on the Anker Clock, the bridge of figures across the lane outside.","An insurance company commissioned it in 1911 from the painter Franz von Matsch. One copper figure from Vienna's past slides across the dial each hour, and at midday all twelve pass with music. An 800-pipe organ played for them until a bomb wrecked the clock in April 1945. 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