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Turn in from Burggasse and the traffic noise drops within a few steps: cars are kept out, so you walk down the middle of a cobbled lane between two-storey fronts painted yellow, green and pink. Above many doors sits the house's old name from the years before houses had numbers. Almost every ground floor is a restaurant, a bar or a small shop, and the lanes are the whole visit.\n\nAt the end of the 1960s this grid of low houses stood derelict and marked for clearance. It had been a quarter of brothels and rowdy inns since the 1700s, built so tight that hardly a house had a yard. Architects and artists objected, then the tenants joined them, arguing that repairing the houses must not mean pushing them out. The city gave way and repaired them instead. 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These houses were named before they were numbered, and some fronts still carry the old sign: the red apple, the white lion, the black elephant, the whale. One is even called kiss-the-penny. Nothing is labelled or explained.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1109\u002Fe0-e1d1.webp",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":178},"Stand under the wooden galleries at the Amerlinghaus","Walk in at Stiftgasse 8. Neighbours occupied this house when it was due to come down, and since 1978 it has been run as a public culture centre, so the yard stays open. Stand in the middle and look up: a wooden gallery runs round the first floor on stone columns, and every flat's door opened onto it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1109\u002Fe1-1ab8.webp",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":181},"Find the windows that are only paint","Stand in front of Spittelberggasse 9 and look hard at the window surrounds. They are not carved. They are painted flat onto the wall in perspective, so the front seems to have depth it does not have. Restorers uncovered the painting under later coats of plaster when the quarter was repaired.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1109\u002Fe2-e2c9.webp",[201,206,211],{"boxType":202,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":150},"history","What the fight over these lanes changed for Vienna","The argument over these houses put protection zones into Vienna's building code in 1972, covering whole streets instead of single buildings.","Austria's monument law protects one building at a time, so an ordinary street had nothing to protect it. The same year, Vienna set up a repair fund for old buildings, paid for out of a levy on radio and television licences. There are now 135 protection zones covering more than 15,000 houses.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":150},"legend","The rhyme that says an emperor was shown the door here","A rhyme in the entrance passage of Gutenberggasse 13 records that Emperor Joseph II was thrown out of the house in 1787.","The house is called the white lion, and it held one of the quarter's notorious brothels. The emperor was said to have come incognito and to have been turned out without ceremony. No court record mentions any of it, so the rhyme on the wall is the only evidence. The ground floor is still an inn.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":150},"culture","The songs the taverns left behind","The quarter's taverns had their own repertoire of coarse four-line verses, and collectors still call them the Spittelberg songs.","Only the words were written down, never the tunes, though scholars have matched their rhythms to three tune types. 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