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No emperor lies among them. This was one of the imperial court's own parish churches, facing the Hofburg across a small square, so the dead below are the court's staff: chamberlains, clerks, shopkeepers and their families. Hundreds of coffins stand in the brick chambers, some of them open, with wigs still on the dried bodies.\n\nItalian priests called Barnabites took the church over in 1626 and spent the next century cutting more chambers; the last coffins went down in the 1780s. The church above is open all day and you can walk straight in, and inside it is dark, with a wall of white figures spilling down the far end above the altar. Getting below is another matter: you go down only with a guide, by narrow stone stairs into a cold draught, and people do find it hard. Upstairs, a mass is said every evening.","AT",[],"detail|**Look at the coffin lids before you look at the faces** — Painted skulls, hourglasses and worn flowers cover the older wooden boxes, and on a few the paint has survived almost whole.\nmusic|**Turn round at the door as you leave** — The organ over the entrance was built in 1714 and restored to that state in the 1980s. It is the largest baroque organ in Vienna.\netiquette|**Treat the crypt as a grave** — Nothing down there stands behind glass, photography and filming are not allowed, and the guide will ask you to keep your distance.\nhistory|**Look for Pietro Metastasio twice** — The imperial court's opera poet died in 1782 and lies in the crypt. 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Inside, walk to the front and find the scene again in white, made in the 1780s and built like a stage set so the light falls on it from above.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1101\u002Fe0-c9b6.webp",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":180},"Look past the baroque to the church underneath","The 1780s fittings are only a wrapper. Stand in front of the altar and look up at the wide arch above it, where painters in the 1300s put Christ and the apostles judging the dead. Restorers uncovered it again. Behind the altar are tall pointed windows, left from the rebuilding of this end in the 1300s and 1400s.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1101\u002Fe2-19d9.webp",[197,202,206,211],{"boxType":198,"title":199,"body":200,"deepBody":201,"sourceNote":150},"history","The graveyard that stood too close to the palace","Until 1508 the parish buried its dead on the open square outside. Maximilian I closed it because it lay against the palace.","With the square gone, the parish had nowhere left to bury, so from about 1560 it began cutting chambers under its own floor. The Herberstein family took the first private one that year. Four church servants were employed just to arrange and tidy the remains. By 1923 coffins stood stacked four and five high.",{"boxType":198,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":150},"The decree that closed the crypt for good","Joseph II banned burial inside every church in Vienna at the end of 1783, and no one has been buried here since.","The patent of 31 December 1783 gave a reason. Officials counted more than ten thousand bodies decaying inside the city line each year, and believed that was making people ill. New cemeteries opened outside the walls, and Vienna's dead have gone out of the centre ever since. Later decrees forbade burial in private family chambers too.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":150},"did_you_know","Nobody set out to preserve these bodies","No one here was embalmed. The chambers' own cool, steady air is what stopped a few bodies from decaying.","A low, even temperature and steady humidity did the work, which is rare anywhere in central Europe. Baroque coats and other clothing survived on some of them. Damp is now the enemy, because wood-boring beetles thrive in it and eat the coffins. Restorers run equipment that holds the chambers near ten degrees and just over sixty percent humidity.",{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":150},"culture","The bill that proves where Mozart was mourned","A funeral bill in this parish's archive records Mozart's memorial service here on 10 December 1791.","The historian Walther Brauneis found the paper in 1991. Two theatre directors, Emanuel Schikaneder and Joseph von Bauernfeind, paid twelve gulden and nine kreuzer for the service. The bill lists no fee for musicians, so the players seem to have performed for nothing. 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