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Its grounds cover two and a half square kilometres, nearly as much as Vienna's old centre, and some 330,000 graves lie along avenues under seventeen thousand trees. Roe deer graze between the rows, and foxes and kestrels live here. Funerals still take place most days.\n\nIt opened on cheap farmland far outside the city because the old graveyards were full. Vienna planned it for every faith at once, and the Catholic church objected so strongly that there was never a consecration. The distance made it unpopular, so the council gave people a reason to come: honorary graves, and Beethoven and Schubert brought here from a closed suburban cemetery. They lie together around a Mozart monument that covers nobody, because he was buried at St Marx and never moved. 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Hearses drive down this road. Just before the church stands the vault where Austria's presidents have been buried since 1951, built deliberately flat so it would not block the view. Climb the church steps and turn round to see the avenue run straight back to the gate.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1111\u002Fe0-2aa4.webp","C.Stadler\u002FBwag \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":184},"Read the death dates in the musicians' plot","Stand in the musicians' plot and check the death years against 1874, when the cemetery opened. Beethoven died in 1827 and Schubert in 1828, so both stones stand over bodies brought here later. Schubert had asked to be buried near Beethoven, and here they lie side by side. In the next section Arnold Schönberg lies under a plain stone cube.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1111\u002Fe1-b42f.webp",{"title":201,"description":202,"imageUrl":203,"attribution":176},"Walk the rows the tree roots have tilted","Go in at Gate 1 instead and the mood changes within a minute. Paths narrow, ivy swallows the stones, and whole rows lean where tree roots have pushed them up. Nothing is locked and nothing is being restored. The work here only stops stones falling further. Leave a small pebble on one, as visitors do.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1111\u002Fe2-c2fa.webp",{"title":205,"description":206,"imageUrl":207,"attribution":176},"Sit still in a far section until the deer feed","Take a bench in one of the far sections late in the day, well away from the musicians' graves, and stop moving. Roe deer feed in the grass between the stones and come close when nothing on the path stirs. Foxes use the same hour.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1111\u002Fe3-ee60.webp",[209,214,219,224],{"boxType":210,"title":211,"body":212,"deepBody":213,"sourceNote":150},"history","The cemetery Vienna did not want","The site lay so far out that in 1874 an engineer and an architect proposed piping coffins there underground.","Franz von Felbinger and Josef Hudetz modelled it on the pneumatic tubes that already shot mail through pipes under London, Berlin and Paris. Nothing was built, and a tram line reached the gates instead. It was numbered 71 in 1907, and Viennese still say someone has taken the 71 when they mean he has died.",{"boxType":215,"title":216,"body":217,"deepBody":218,"sourceNote":150},"wildlife","The hamsters that steal grave candles","European hamsters live between the graves here, and they drag grave candles into their burrows to eat the wax.","The species is dying out. Farming has stripped its fields, and in 2020 conservationists moved it into their highest risk category, one step from extinct in the wild. Vienna's population is growing while rural ones shrink, because walled cemeteries give the animals undisturbed open ground. Researchers have counted the animals here since 2021.",{"boxType":220,"title":221,"body":222,"deepBody":223,"sourceNote":150},"culture","The funeral people saved up for","A grand send-off mattered so much in Vienna that ordinary families paid into burial clubs for years to afford one.","Viennese call it a schöne Leich, a beautiful corpse. By 1894 eighty-three funeral firms competed in the city. One of them, Concordia, sold burials in seven price classes, so almost any income could buy some kind of horse-drawn procession. 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