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It is built from concentric half-rings of feathers, quetzal at the outer edge with plumes up to fifty-five centimetres long, and blue cotinga, flamingo and cuckoo feathers worked in behind them. Spread out it measures roughly 116 centimetres high and 175 wide. It sits in a sealed case in deliberately low light, in what is usually the quietest room in the building.\n\nThe argument about who should have it has run for decades. Mexico has asked for it back repeatedly; conservators here have concluded the featherwork would not survive the journey, and a copy has stood in Mexico City since the 1940s. Its own story is thinner than the label suggests. The headdress first appears in a castle inventory in the 1590s, and the popular name attaching it to Moctezuma was added much later with nothing solid behind it. 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The room is kept dim to protect the feathers, and at first you see a grey-green shape. As your eyes adjust the quetzal plumes turn iridescent and the blue ring separates out. The waiting is the experience.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1127\u002Fe0-4566.webp","Richard Mortel \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":196},"Look for where the feathers overlap","Get as close as the case allows and follow one ring around. The plumes are laid in overlapping courses like tiles on a roof, each fixed so the next one hides its fastening. Working out how the surface was built takes a few minutes and changes it from a treasure into a piece of engineering.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1127\u002Fe1-e03d.webp","Danny Navarro \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":180},"Read one object's acquisition story end to end","Pick any object with a full provenance panel and read it all the way through, including the parts about how it left home. The museum built its displays around those accounts. Doing this once makes the rest of the building, and the palace collections next door, read very differently.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F1127\u002Fe2-e751.webp",[202,207],{"boxType":203,"title":204,"body":205,"deepBody":206,"sourceNote":150},"history","How it got here, as far as anyone can prove","The headdress appears in an inventory drawn up at Ambras Castle in 1596, after the death of Archduke Ferdinand II.","Before that the trail runs thin: it can be followed to the 1570s and probably passed through a south German noble collection before reaching the Habsburgs. The Ambras holdings came to Vienna in the early nineteenth century. What no document supports is the name it is usually given, which links it to Moctezuma without evidence.",{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":150},"culture","Asked for, and not sent","Mexico has requested the headdress repeatedly. 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