[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"categories-en":3,"dest-5d176dae0d35":144,"detail-extra-729":167,"travel-countries-en":265},[4,9,14,19,24,29,34,39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,129,134,139],{"id":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"color":8},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":10,"slug":11,"name":12,"color":13},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":15,"slug":16,"name":17,"color":18},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":20,"slug":21,"name":22,"color":23},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":25,"slug":26,"name":27,"color":28},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":30,"slug":31,"name":32,"color":33},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":35,"slug":36,"name":37,"color":38},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},3,"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},5,"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":125,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":130,"slug":131,"name":132,"color":133},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":135,"slug":136,"name":137,"color":138},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":140,"slug":141,"name":142,"color":143},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"id":145,"publicId":146,"slug":147,"name":148,"shortDescription":149,"categoryId":105,"importance":105,"lng":150,"lat":151,"coverImageUrl":152,"country":153,"region":154,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":-1,"kind":156,"cityGuideId":157,"description":158,"countryCode":159,"adminArea":157,"elevationM":160,"bestMonths":161,"tips":165,"howToGetThere":157,"youtubeIds":166,"timezone":157,"cityGuideSlug":157,"cityGuidePublicId":157,"cityGuideName":157,"poiTheme":157,"poiNeighborhood":157},729,"5d176dae0d35","voltzberg-dome","Voltzberg Dome","A bald granite dome 240 metres high standing out of roadless Suriname rainforest, reached by river and a four-hour walk, with cacti on its summit.",-56.167,4.683,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F729\u002Fcover.webp","Suriname","Raleighvallen, Central Suriname Nature Reserve",0,"nature",null,"The Voltzberg Dome is a bald granite dome 240 metres high standing out of the roadless rainforest of the Central Suriname Nature Reserve, in Suriname, reached by a day's journey up the Coppename river in a dugout korjaal and a four-hour walk through forest that has never been cut or hunted, with cacti growing on its summit and the largest lek of the cock-of-the-rock in the Guianas at its foot. The dome is an inselberg, a knob of granite two billion years old that the rain has stripped of soil while the forest grew around it, and nothing else stripped it, since the rock sheds water and heat too fast for anything but lichen and a few succulents to hold on; the only way in is by water, from the Raleighvallen rapids where the river breaks over black rock and the camp stands on an island, and then six kilometres of primary forest, creeks crossed on fallen trunks, buttress roots taller than a person and fungi on every rotting branch, with spider monkeys and macaws overhead. The climb goes up the bare granite before the sun finds it, since the dome is shadeless and turns into a hotplate later, and the top gives a view over unbroken forest to every horizon, the canopy going grey with distance.\n\nThe cock-of-the-rock lek is the other reason for the walk. From December to April some 55 orange males hold cleared courts on the forest floor near the dome, each on his own patch of ground, bowing and flaring their crests for whichever brown female comes to look, hardest at dawn, in a display that has been studied here for decades. The reserve is 1.6 million hectares of forest joined into one block in 1998 from three older reserves, brokered by Conservation International and the government, and it is one of the least visited places in South America, with a handful of visitors a week. The Voltzberg is a bare rock in a green sea, and the birds dance at its foot.","SR",240,[90,95,100,105,125,162,163,164,130],9,10,11,"months|**Aim for a drier window — September to November, or February to March.** From April to August the long rains make the granite slick and turn the forest trail to deep mud.\naccess|**Nothing about this is walk-up.** River transport, guide and camp all come through a licensed operator out of Paramaribo, and the shortest realistic trip runs three to four days.\nwater|**Carry every litre you will drink.** There is no water on the trail or on the dome, and the climb comes at the end of a long, humid forest walk in full tropical heat.",[],{"gallery":168,"exps":183,"boxes":201,"seasons":217,"near":251,"peers":264},[169,171,174,177,179,181],{"url":152,"attribution":170},"Photo: Jan Willem Broekema, cropped by Hans Erren \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":172,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F729\u002Fg0.webp","Photo: David Evers \u002F CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":175,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F729\u002Fg1.webp","Photo: Jan Willem Broekema \u002F CC BY-SA 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":178,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F729\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":180,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F729\u002Fg3.webp",{"url":182,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F729\u002Fg4.webp",[184,188,192,196],{"title":185,"description":186,"imageUrl":187,"attribution":176},"Ride a korjaal up the Coppename to the rapids","The only way in is by water. A korjaal — a long, narrow dugout — carries you and the week's gear up the Coppename River to Raleigh Falls, where the current breaks white over granite ledges and the forest closes in on both banks.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F729\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":189,"description":190,"imageUrl":191,"attribution":176},"Walk in through forest that has never been cut or hunted","Six kilometres of primary rainforest lie between the river and the rock: creeks crossed on fallen trunks, buttress roots taller than you are, fungi on every rotting branch. Nothing here has been logged or hunted, and the animals have not learned to be afraid of people.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F729\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":176},"Climb the bare granite before the sun finds it","Leave the camp at the foot of the rock in the dark, because the dome is shadeless and turns into a hotplate later. The trees simply stop and coarse charcoal-grey granite takes over, steep enough in places to put you on your hands, with nothing on it but cacti, lizards and the grip of your boots. From the top the canopy runs to every horizon and other domes break through it like islands, Van Stockumberg among them, while macaws and toucans cross below you leaving their roosts.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F729\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":200},"Sit at the cock-of-the-rock lek at dawn","In the early morning, orange males gather on the forest floor near the dome, each on his own patch of cleared ground, bowing and flaring for whichever female decides to come and look. It is one of the great bird displays of the Guiana Shield, and it happens within walking distance of the trail.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F729\u002Fe6-5s37.webp","\"Guianian Cock-of-the-rock (Rupicola rupicola)\" by Bernard DUPONT, CC BY-SA 2.0 (https:\u002F\u002Fcreativecommons.org\u002Flicenses\u002Fby-sa\u002F2.0\u002F)",[202,207,212],{"boxType":203,"title":204,"body":205,"deepBody":206,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","The birds that dance and never meet again","The orange birds near the dome do not pair off. Males clear small courts on the forest floor and dance on them; females walk in, watch, choose, mate, and leave alone.","A studied Suriname lek of Guianan cock-of-the-rock held around 55 territorial males, each defending a bare circle about a metre across, the circles a few metres apart. Females judge from perches above. Afterwards they nest away from the lek, alone — a cup of mud and plant fibre glued with saliva to a shaded vertical rock face.",{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":157},"geology","Why the rock stays bare","Nothing stripped the dome. Granite this hard sheds rain straight off its curve and peels away in shells, so soil never gets long enough to settle and hold.","Guiana Shield inselbergs flake in onion-like layers as the weight of eroded rock above them is released. What does grow on them is a mosaic botanists call rock savanna: mats of drought-adapted herbs, shrubs and lichens rooted in cracks and hollows, cacti among them, marooned in the middle of a rainforest.",{"boxType":213,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":157},"history","Three reserves, one block","The protection around Voltzberg was brokered rather than decreed: Conservation International and the government joined three separate old reserves into one continuous block of forest.","Raleighvallen, Tafelberg and the Eilerts de Haan mountains had each been protected on their own, as islands. Merging them in 1998 created a single unbroken run of forest deep into the southern interior. A conservation trust fund followed in 2000, paid into by Conservation International, the Global Environment Facility and the state, to cover the cost of keeping it that way.",[218,223,228,233,238,242,246],{"phenomenon":219,"peakMonths":220,"note":221,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":90},"birds",[130,90,95,100,105],"Guianan cocks-of-the-rock court from December to April at a lek near the dome: roughly 55 orange males hold cleared courts on the forest floor, displaying hardest at dawn, with females laying around March.",false,{"phenomenon":224,"peakMonths":225,"note":226,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":227},"chapter_peak",[90,95,100,130],"The short December–January rains ease into February and March's drier spell, keeping the forest trail walkable.",50,{"phenomenon":229,"peakMonths":230,"note":231,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":232},"chapter_edge",[105],"April is the tail of the lek and the turn of the year: the cock-of-the-rock display thins out and the long rains start to build, softening the forest trail and greasing the granite. Go early in the month if at all.",51,{"phenomenon":234,"peakMonths":235,"note":236,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":237},"chapter_quiet",[110,115,120],"The long rains, wettest in May and June: the forest trail turns to deep mud and the bare granite goes dangerously slick. Operators run few departures and the summit climb is a wet-rock gamble — but nothing officially closes, and the forest wildlife stays.",52,{"phenomenon":229,"peakMonths":239,"note":240,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":241},[125],"August is the turn back toward dry: the long rains fade through the month and the forest trail begins to firm, though the granite can still be greasy after a downpour. The dry-season tour groups have not fully started up yet.",53,{"phenomenon":224,"peakMonths":243,"note":244,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":245},[162,163,164],"The long dry season and prime window: September to November are the year's driest months, so the forest trail firms up and the granite dries out, canopy views turn sharpest, and licensed operators run their four-day trips. Brutal heat waits on the shadeless dome.",54,{"phenomenon":247,"peakMonths":248,"note":249,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":250},"baseline",[],"The dome, the roadless summit horizon and the forest's monkeys and macaws stand here every day; what turns with the year is the cock-of-the-rock lek and how wet and walkable the forest trail is.",99,[252],{"id":253,"publicId":254,"slug":255,"name":256,"shortDescription":257,"categoryId":90,"importance":100,"lng":258,"lat":259,"coverImageUrl":260,"country":261,"region":262,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":263,"kind":157,"cityGuideId":157},94,"095514d39251","kaieteur-falls","Kaieteur Falls","Guyana's 226-metre waterfall, one of the world's most powerful single drops, reached only by light plane — you stand at its unfenced rim in empty 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