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Aogashima

Aogashima

IslandsJapanTokyo (Izu Adaları),Japan

A Japanese volcano inside a volcano where about 160 people live on the outer rim, farm the crater floor and cook on its steam vents.

September·Quiet month

Sep–Oct

Typhoon season's peak: the ferry is at its least reliable and can strand you for days, though the nine-seat helicopter still flies most mornings. Nothing on the island closes; the crater, the hingya steam vents and the sauna stay open, and the air runs clear between storms.



Year-round The double crater, the sea cliffs and the steaming hingya vents — where islanders cook eggs and boil seawater into salt — stand here every day, whatever the sea and sky are doing.

Aogashima's roughly 160 residents live on the outer rim of an active volcano and climb down into its crater to work. The island lies about 358 kilometres south of Tokyo in the Philippine Sea, legally part of the capital and in practice the loneliest inhabited point of the Izu chain. Its outer caldera, Ikenosawa, is some 1.5 kilometres wide, and standing inside it is Maruyama, a 223-metre cone thrown up by the eruption of 1781-85. That eruption gave the island the shape it has today and nearly ended it: of 327 islanders, around 130 could not be evacuated in time and died, and the survivors left Aogashima empty for about fifty years. Japan's weather agency still lists the volcano as active. The two hamlets cling to the northern rim, every house set above the sea. Climb Otonbu, the 423-metre high point, and the whole double crater opens below you: the green bowl, Maruyama's ridged cone at its centre, small terraced fields, and ocean to every horizon. The heat that made all of it is still just under the grass. On the crater floor at Ikenosawa the islanders tap steam vents they call hingya to cook eggs and vegetables in free public steamers, to heat a sauna and to turn seawater into salt. The island has no harbour, so the fishing boats are lifted in and out of the water by crane. Reaching Aogashima at all depends on the sea, and the ferry from Hachijojima sails only about half the days it is scheduled. After dark almost nothing is lit, and the Milky Way stands over the crater.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Book the nine-seat helicopter the minute reservations open, one month ahead — the seats go in minutes, and the ferry from Hachijojima sails only about half the days it is scheduled.
  • Leave spare days at both ends. Wind and swell strand travellers here regularly, and a fixed onward flight out of Tokyo is the one thing this trip cannot absorb.
  • Check the moon phase before you book — even here a full moon washes the sky out, so aim for the nights around new moon and carry a torch, because the roads have no lighting.
  • April to June brings the calmest seas and the best odds the boat actually runs; typhoons cross in late summer and autumn, and winter swells can shut the crossing for days.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Climb Otonbu for the whole double crater

    Climb Otonbu for the whole double crater

    Otonbu is the 423-metre high point of the outer rim, and it is where the island finally explains itself. The green bowl of the caldera lies below, Maruyama's cone rises out of the middle of it, and open ocean runs in every direction. On a clear day Hachijojima shows up on the horizon.

  2. 2

    Cook your lunch in the ground at Hingya

    Cook your lunch in the ground at Hingya

    At the Hingya vents on the crater floor the islanders have set cooking pots straight over the steam, free for anyone to use: bring eggs, sweet potatoes or vegetables, open the tap and wait twenty minutes or so. The same heat runs the small mist sauna next door.

  3. 3

    Walk the coast of an island with no harbour

    Walk the coast of an island with no harbour

    There is no bay and no breakwater here, so cargo swings ashore at a short pier under the cliff and the fishing boats are plucked out of the sea by crane onto a concrete shelf. The reason is the coast itself: a wall of dark rock hundreds of metres high, concreted in places where the ground is too crumbly to trust. Walk the coast road and you also understand why the ferry from Hachijojima sails only about half the days it is scheduled.

  4. 4

    Walk the two hamlets on the rim

    Walk the two hamlets on the rim

    Everyone on Aogashima lives up on the outer rim, in Yasundogo and Nishigo: a school, a couple of small shops, houses set high above the sea, and roads that switchback down the slope. The whole settlement takes minutes to cross, and the crater lies just over the ridge behind it.

  5. 5

    Watch the stars fill the crater at Ikenosawa

    On a moonless night, walk down onto the caldera floor near the sauna and give your eyes twenty minutes. Nothing here is lit — no streetlights, no glow from any mainland — and the stars come down to the crater walls the whole way around you. The village calls this bowl its coliseum of sky.

Watch

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