The Dead Sea is a lake so salty that you cannot sink in it — wade out and your feet float up on their own, and you end up on your back whether you meant to or not. The water is roughly ten times saltier than the ocean and nothing lives in it: no fish, no weed, which is where the grim name comes from. Its surface lies about 430 metres below sea level, the lowest dry land on Earth, and it drops by more than a metre every year. The Jordan River trickles in from the north and nothing flows out; under a desert sun that can pass 45°C the water evaporates and crusts the shore white. That thirst is now a crisis — upstream farms and potash works have cut the river to a fraction of its old flow, so the lake retreats fast and pocks its banks with thousands of sinkholes.
The float has a catch: you cannot right yourself once you roll over, which is why most drownings here happen face-down rather than by sinking. Slick black mud from the shore is smeared on, left to bake, then rinsed off, a spa ritual older than Cleopatra. The light is soft, too: this far below sea level, an extra slice of atmosphere screens the harshest rays, which is why doctors still send psoriasis patients to bathe in this sun. On the Jordanian side, public beaches and resort spas open onto the water, and the finest hour comes at dawn, when the sun clears the mountains and lays a gold path over a surface as still as glass.