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Drakensberg

Drakensberg

PeaksSouth AfricaKwaZulu-Natal,South Africa

South Africa's highest range, where a five-kilometre basalt wall drops the 948-metre Tugela Falls, with chain ladders to the rim and San paintings below.

September·Quiet month

Sep–Nov

Spring brings warm, clear hiking days but neither of the range's two great sights: the snow has gone and the Tugela runs low until the summer rains. Recent controlled burns can blacken the lower slopes. Nothing closes, and the green and the flowers return with November's first storms.



Year-round The Amphitheatre wall and its San rock art stand year-round, turning copper-coloured at dawn. Winter brings snow and clear air, and summer brings the storms that feed Tugela Falls.

The Drakensberg's Amphitheatre is a single wall of rock about five kilometres long and more than a thousand metres high. Off its rim the Tugela Falls drop some 948 metres in five clear leaps — long ranked the world's second-highest waterfall, and by a 2016 survey perhaps the tallest of all. The wall is the raw edge of the Great Escarpment, where hard basalt caps softer rock that has worn back beneath it. The lava went down about 182 million years ago as Gondwana broke apart. The dark basalt rests on a band of pale golden sandstone, and that lower rock is where the caves and shelters are. The Zulu named the range uKhahlamba, the barrier of spears; Dutch settlers saw dragons in the skyline and called it the Drakensberg. This is the highest ground in Southern Africa. Light reaches the wall first. At dawn the basalt face turns copper-gold while the valley below is still in shadow; on summer afternoons thunderheads swallow the peaks and fill the gorges with rain. The classic walk climbs the Tugela Gorge to the foot of the falls, boulder-hopping the last stretch and crossing a swaying cable bridge into the spray. In the wet months the Tugela thunders; by dry winter it can shrink to a thin silver thread. The Sentinel path leads to two sets of chain ladders bolted up a near-vertical face, and at the top the ground simply ends at your boots. In rock shelters below are the paintings of the San, who lived here for thousands of years: more than 35,000 images across hundreds of sites, the largest concentration of rock art in Africa south of the Sahara. Antelope graze the grassland beneath the buttresses, and in fine rain the whole escarpment turns silver and quiet.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The waterfall and the clear views want opposite seasons — the Tugela runs fullest after the summer rains from December to February, while the crispest, driest air over the peaks comes in the winter months.
  • The chain-ladder route starts high, at the Sentinel car park — reach it on rough gravel from the Free State side, and sign in and pay a small fee at the hut before you climb.
  • Weather on the top turns within minutes — the ladders and the open plateau are dangerous in wind or a lightning storm, so climb early and head down if afternoon clouds build.
  • The ladders bottleneck on weekends and holidays — two-way traffic backs up on the vertical sections, so hike on a weekday or set off at first light to get the plateau to yourself.
  • Scan the cliffs for the bearded vulture — the huge, rare raptor rides the thermals along the escarpment, most often seen from the high plateau in the middle of a clear morning.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Boulder-hop the Tugela Gorge to the falls

    Boulder-hop the Tugela Gorge to the falls

    The path up the valley is easy until it stops being a path: the last stretch is boulder-hopping up the riverbed and a cable bridge that sways as you cross it into the spray. Time it by what you came for — the Tugela carries full weight after the summer rains and can be down to a silver thread by dry winter. Go up early either way, because summer afternoons build thunderheads that fill these gorges with rain.

  2. 2

    Climb the chain ladders to the plateau

    Climb the chain ladders to the plateau

    Haul yourself up two sets of steel chain ladders bolted to an almost vertical rock face, then walk out across the tilted summit grassland to the very lip of the Amphitheatre. The ground drops away a kilometre at your toes, and the Tugela slides off the edge beside you into open air.

  3. 3

    Walk the Royal Natal meadow for the full sweep

    Walk the Royal Natal meadow for the full sweep

    Head out on the open meadow trail in the Royal Natal valley, where the ground pulls back far enough to hold all five kilometres of the wall in a single view. Line up the antelope grazing the foreground against the rampart behind them to gauge how vast the escarpment really is. Be out there before the sun clears the horizon and the basalt shifts from grey to burning copper while the foothills below stay in shadow. On a still morning a flooded pan on the valley floor doubles the whole ridge in its reflection.

  4. 4

    Read the San paintings on a shelter wall

    Follow a guide to a protected rock shelter in the foothills — Game Pass, Kamberg or Giant's Castle — where ochre-and-white figures of eland, hunters and dancers still cover the sandstone. Up close you can pick out the fine detail and the layers of images built up over thousands of years.

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