The High Tatras are the smallest alpine mountain range on Earth: a full run of glacier-cut granite peaks packed into a main ridge barely 26 kilometres long. In that short span, ice-age glaciers sharpened 25 summits past 2,500 metres. The highest, Gerlachovský štít at 2,655 metres, tops not only Slovakia but the entire 1,200-kilometre sweep of the Carpathians. Beside it stand its rivals: Lomnický štít at 2,634 metres and the sharp horn of Kriváň, the peak Slovaks hold almost sacred. Below the bare rock, dark spruce forest climbs into a dense belt of dwarf pine. Scattered through the high valleys lie more than a hundred glacial lakes the locals call pleso, each a still, clear mirror of the ridgeline above.
The peaks are rugged, but much of the range can be enjoyed without any climbing. At dawn on Štrbské Pleso, the most reachable of the lakes at 1,346 metres, the water turns rose-pink while lakeside chalets surface from the mist; by autumn, larches ring the shore in a band of gold. Higher up, timber mountain huts — the chata — wait among the granite walls with hot soup and a silence broken only by wind. Reaching all this is easier than the scenery suggests. The historic Tatra Electric Railway still clatters up to the foot of the peaks, linking Štrbské Pleso, Starý Smokovec and Tatranská Lomnica and swapping in a fresh wall of summits at every stop. The whole massif has been protected since 1949 as Slovakia's oldest national park, and since 1993 it has formed a cross-border UNESCO biosphere reserve shared with Poland — one skyline watched from two countries at once.