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Kolmanskop

Kolmanskop

DesertsNamibiaǁKaras,Namibia

A German diamond boomtown the Namib is filling room by room — dunes cresting across a ballroom floor, corridors knee-deep in sand, the paint still up.

September·Edge of season

Sep

September is the pivot back: the southerly begins to rebuild after the winter lull, and this is the greyest, cloudiest month on the coast. The town stays fully open and the rooms still hold their ripples early, before the gale takes over.



Year-round The sand-drowned rooms, the pale green, blue and peach walls and the painted friezes above the doorframes stand every month; what shifts is the wind, the light angle and the coastal chill.

Kolmanskop is a German town in the Namib desert with sand dunes inside its houses. Step through the doorways and you find a ridge cresting across a ballroom floor, a corridor filled to the knee, a bedroom wall half-buried in ripples, and the paint still up in pale green, blue and peach. The town was built on diamonds picked off the dunes by hand. In 1908 a contract railway worker, Zacharias Lewala, shovelling drift off the line near Lüderitz, found a glittering pebble and handed it to his supervisor, August Stauch. By 1912 the field around Kolmanskop was producing roughly a tenth of the world's diamonds, and the money bought 350 residents a ballroom, a theatre, a skittle alley, a saltwater pool and an ice factory. Then in 1928 far richer stones turned up 270 kilometres south. People left the furniture where it stood, and by the late 1950s the last of them had gone. The sand is still arriving, and the rooms are still filling. A few buildings are kept swept and furnished; the rest are left to it. In the old hospital stands the first X-ray machine south of the equator. It was pointed at people as often as at illness: workers leaving the diamond fields were X-rayed to see whether they had swallowed a stone. Kolmanskop is not abandoned in the strict sense. It sits inside a diamond area that is still restricted, Namdeb runs it as a museum, and you need a permit to walk in. Photographers come at sunrise, when the light reaches through the empty window frames and before the day's footprints cross the sand.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • A permit is required, sold in Lüderitz or at the gate. The pricier photographers' permit is the one worth having: it lets you in from sunrise, hours before the standard morning opening.
  • Dress for a cold coast, not a hot desert. Winter mornings here start near 11°C with the Benguela wind behind them, and the afternoon rarely passes the low twenties.
  • Take one of the free morning guided tours for the story, then double back alone. Most visitors are gone by midday, when the buildings empty out and go quiet.
  • The fine sand gets into everything — carry a sealed bag for cameras and lenses, and wear closed shoes, because you will be walking up and down dunes indoors.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Photograph the painted doorway at sunrise, before visitors' footprints cross the sand

    Photograph the painted doorway at sunrise, before visitors' footprints cross the sand

    Come in on the photographers' permit at sunrise and head straight for the doorway between the pale-green and blue rooms, while the tongue of sand across the threshold is still smooth. A hand-painted fruit frieze survives above the frame; line up your shot before the morning tours track the floor and the ripples are gone.

  2. 2

    Walk a corridor whose floor is now a dune

    Walk a corridor whose floor is now a dune

    The long corridor keeps its green wainscot and its row of white doorframes, but the floor underfoot is rippled sand. In the biggest rooms the sand does not merely cover the floor, it crests: a dune climbs to window-sill height and slides down the far side, every ripple picked out by the arched windows.

  3. 3

    Sight through a half-buried window to the next house

    Sight through a half-buried window to the next house

    Find a room where the sand has banked up to the sill and lean into the opening, where the drift indoors runs straight out to meet the drift outside. Line up the gap so the next house frames up in the same white glare, inside and outside collapsed into one continuous slope.

  4. 4

    See the whole town adrift on the plain

    See the whole town adrift on the plain

    From the edge of the site the town reads as it really is: a few dozen roofs, a rusted mine shed and a line of workers' quarters. All of it is set down on a gravel plain that runs empty to the horizon. Barely 350 people lived out here.

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