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Mole National Park

Mole National Park

Savannas & PlainsGhanaSavannah Region,Ghana
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

Ghana's largest park, where about 800 elephants crowd the last waterholes in the dry season and you track them on foot with an armed guide.

September·Quiet month

Apr–Oct

From April the first storms break the heat and green the savanna, and birding peaks as migrants arrive from the Sahel. But elephants disperse far from the motel and sightings grow unpredictable. Nothing closes, though muddy tracks and tall undergrowth make the walks harder.


Year-round Mole's elephants and savanna wildlife are here year-round. In the dry season, November to March, they crowd the shrinking waterholes below the park motel, which is the best time to watch them.

Mole National Park is the largest wildlife reserve in Ghana, 4,800 square kilometres of savanna woodland in the Savannah Region of the north, and it is one of the few places in Africa where wild elephants are approached on foot, walking out behind an armed ranger to the waterholes where some 800 of them crowd in the dry season. The park is cheap and unpolished, and its heart is an escarpment above two waterholes: the motel and the lodge stand on the cliff edge, and from their terraces the elephants are watched wading in to drink and cool off through the afternoon heat, spraying mud over their backs, while kob antelope graze the flats and shaggy defassa waterbuck stand near the water. The walking safaris leave in the early morning and late afternoon with a Ghana Wildlife ranger and a rifle, through the grass toward the herds, and the ranger reads the wind and the mood of the bulls to bring the group within a few dozen metres; there are lions and leopards in the park but they are rarely seen, so the walk is about the elephants, the antelope and the birds. The wildlife does not stay in the bush. Baboons and warthogs share the camp, the baboons raiding anything left on a terrace, and at the end of the dry season, from February to April, when even the waterholes shrink, the elephants walk up among the chalets and dip their trunks into the swimming pool before staff can wave them off. The village at the park gate, Larabanga, guards one of the oldest mosques in West Africa, a small building of mud and timber in the Sudanese style with whitewashed walls bristling with wooden stakes, said to date from the fifteenth century, and a sacred stone at the roadside that legend says returned by itself each time the road builders moved it. Mole is Africa's elephants without the fences or the prices, and the walk toward them is what the place gives.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Take the 7:00 walk, not the afternoon one — animals move and drink in the cool early hours, then melt into the shade by nine, when the heat clamps down.
  • Come for elephants on foot, not big cats — Mole's lions have all but disappeared and its leopards stay hidden, so the thrill here is approaching elephants and antelope up close.
  • Wear closed shoes and long trousers for the walk — you move through tall grass on foot, and you must keep to the ranger's spacing the moment a bull elephant is near.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Track elephants on foot

    Track elephants on foot

    Set out with an armed Ghana Wildlife ranger — few parks in Africa still let you approach wild elephants on foot. Walks leave twice a day, at 7:00 and mid-afternoon, run about two hours, and need no booking.

  2. 2

    Watch elephants bathe below the escarpment

    Watch elephants bathe below the escarpment

    From the motel terrace on the cliff edge, look down onto the waterholes where elephants wade in to drink and cool off through the afternoon heat. In the dry months whole families gather below, hosing mud over their backs while warthogs and antelope wait their turn. As the day cools the savanna stretches unbroken to the horizon in amber light, and the birdcalls give way to the sounds of the coming night.

  3. 3

    Pick out the kob and waterbuck

    Pick out the kob and waterbuck

    Beyond the elephants, the grasslands hold a crowd of antelope — herds of kob, shaggy defassa waterbuck near the water, and the occasional roan or hartebeest. Learn to read the grass and you start noticing them everywhere, grazing in the low golden light.

  4. 4

    Share the camp with baboons and warthogs

    Share the camp with baboons and warthogs

    At Mole the wildlife does not stay in the bush. Troops of olive baboons lope across the motel grounds, warthogs kneel to graze the lawns, and now and then an elephant wanders through — so keep your door shut and your snacks well hidden.

Watch

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