Mont Blanc is the highest point in the Alps and in all of Western Europe, at about 4,805 metres. It is a white dome rather than a peak — a rounded snow cap sitting on granite, unmistakable from fifty kilometres away because nothing else in the range is that shape. Around it, hundreds of sharp granite spires climbers call aiguilles, or needles, fill the sky in every direction. The mass straddles the France-Italy border, and glaciers pour off it down every side. Chamonix sits directly below on the French side, and mountaineering was invented there. On 8 August 1786 a crystal hunter and a local doctor, Jacques Balmat and Michel-Gabriel Paccard, reached the top, and the sport followed them up. The dome you see is snow, not rock: the granite tops out near 4,792 metres and the rest is wind-packed.
You can stand almost among those peaks without a rope. A cable car climbs from Chamonix to the Aiguille du Midi terrace at 3,842 metres in about twenty minutes, fast enough that the thin air catches people out. From up there a glass box called Step into the Void leaves you hanging over a kilometre of open air, and roped parties file out along the snow arête below to start their climbs. Below runs the Mer de Glace, the largest glacier in France, seven kilometres of slowly moving ice. It also shows plainly how much has changed: visitors once stepped off the mountain train straight onto the ice, and now they climb down nearly 600 steps to reach it. Down in the valley, a couple of hours' walk brings you up to Lac Blanc at 2,352 metres, which on a windless day holds the whole white massif upside down. Chamonix itself runs on the mountain — guide offices, old stone hotels, and ice permanently overhead.