Pacaya is the easiest active volcano to reach in the Americas: a 2,552-metre cone about an hour south of Guatemala City. The marked trail has run close enough to fresh lava for guides to toast marshmallows on the heat. Cooks have slid pizzas onto the warm black rock. Almost no other live volcano lets you get that near. It erupted almost without pause from 1965 to 2010, one of the longest continuous eruptions any volcano in the Americas has produced, and it has not gone quiet since. The friendliness has limits: ash from one eruption closed the capital's airport, and a later active phase sent lava down the flanks toward the towns below. Check what the mountain is doing before you book anything.
The climb starts in fragrant pine forest, then breaks out onto black ash and broken lava. Much of that rock is the flow that hardened after 2021, and you walk straight across it — in places the crust rings hollow underfoot and thin threads of steam leak from the cracks. Higher up, Guatemala's line of volcanoes fills the horizon: the smooth pyramid of Agua, with the restless Fuego and Acatenango behind it, often trailing smoke above a sea of cloud. Near the top, steam hisses from cracks hot enough to sting your palm, and the summit cone smokes without pause. Check how active the volcano is before you book. No lava is running on the flanks at the moment, and the ribbon of orange that made Pacaya famous appears only while the crater is erupting. To have a chance of seeing it, climb on a night tour during one of those active spells, when the glow stands out against the dark.