Stingray City is a wildlife encounter nobody designed. For decades Caymanian fishermen anchored inside the North Sound's barrier reef to clean conch and fish, and the southern stingrays that came for the scraps learned that an approaching engine meant food. Dive operators began hand-feeding them squid in 1986, and the rays have turned out for the boats ever since. There are two sites: the Sandbar, a pale shoal in the middle of the sound where the water is only waist to chest deep, and the deeper original spot about four metres down that divers still call the City. The rays are wild and free to leave; they come in for the food and swim off again. Most are adult females, the biggest over a metre across, and scientists have tagged and counted them here for more than twenty years.
Wade off the boat and the water is warm and clear enough to see your own feet on the rippled sand. The rays come in low, press against your legs and hover under your hands; the skin is slick and the wings are firm and muscular, and a big female circling for squid is unnervingly calm. Guides feed them from a flat palm; snorkellers drop below the surface and watch the grey squadron pass overhead. The rays are protected under Cayman's National Conservation Act. Both sites are designated Wildlife Interaction Zones, and only licensed operators are allowed to feed the animals. Lifting a ray out of the water for a photograph counts in law as taking a protected animal, and it is an offence. The size of the group rises and falls with the boats: the count fell to 47 animals in October 2020, when the borders closed and the squid stopped coming, and was back above a hundred by 2023. Come on the first boat and the bar is quiet; by mid-morning it can hold dozens.