Teide is the highest point in Spain, 3,715 metres above Tenerife, and the highest of any island in the Atlantic. Measured from the Atlantic seabed it climbs about 7,500 metres, which makes it the third-tallest volcano on Earth. It stands inside Las Cañadas, a caldera sixteen kilometres across left when an earlier, taller volcano collapsed on itself around 200,000 years ago. You drive in through a gap in the caldera wall and the cone is suddenly there, alone on a plain of black lava. Teide and its neighbour Pico Viejo grew out of that wreckage. The floor around them is obsidian, pumice and the wind-carved rock towers of Roques de García, and almost nothing grows on it. A cable car climbs the flank to 3,555 metres, and the last stretch to the crater rim needs a free permit issued to a limited number of people each day.
One of the best things here is the cloud below you. Trade winds trap moisture on the lower slopes, so the cable car breaks through into sunlight above a white sea, with the peak floating over it. After dark the mountain becomes something else. With more than 300 clear nights a year and almost no light pollution, this is one of the darkest skies in Europe, a certified Starlight Reserve with the Teide Observatory on the ridge. The core of the Milky Way shows to the naked eye. In late spring the grey caldera flushes red with tajinaste flower spikes that reach three metres. Winter can bury the same ground in snow and close the roads. Teide is now the most visited national park in Europe, with over four million people a year, yet a short walk from the cable car the lava plains fall silent again.