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Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen

Historic TownsMoroccoTanger-Tetouan-Al Hoceima,Morocco

A Moroccan town whose medina is painted blue from doorstep to rooftop, no two walls the same shade, and closed to outsiders for 450 years.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Nov

The autumn shoulder: the heat eases to mild highs around 25°C from September, the first rains revive the slopes and streams, and October's warmth gives way to a quieter, wetter November. It is the mellow twin of spring, the last easy stretch before winter.



Year-round The blue medina is repainted by hand and stands the same in every month; only the Rif slopes and rivers around it change.

Chefchaouen is a Moroccan mountain town painted blue from doorstep to rooftop, and no two walls are quite the same blue. Climb the medina and the shade changes at every turn. A brass-studded door is deep indigo, a stairway comes close to turquoise, a wall has faded to the pale of a winter sky, and geraniums and hanging rugs break it all with warm colour. Residents keep it that way, repainting by hand with lime and pigment. There is no single viewpoint here; the town is the view. Two bare peaks of the Rif stand straight above the rooftops and give the place its name, from the Amazigh word for horns. The blue itself is recent: photographs from the 1930s show patches, not the wall-to-wall indigo people now fly in for. The town began in 1471 as a hillside kasbah, raised by Ali ibn Rashid al-Alami against Portuguese raids on the coast. It then filled with Andalusi Muslims and Sephardic Jews expelled from Spain, who brought the tiled roofs, the arches and the lime-washed lanes you still walk. Chefchaouen stayed shut to outsiders for nearly 450 years after that. Only three Westerners are known to have got inside before Spanish troops walked through the gates in 1920. Charles de Foucauld came disguised as a rabbi in 1883; an American, William Summers, was caught and poisoned in 1892. At the medina's top edge the Ras el-Maa spring pours straight out of the mountain, and women still bring washing down to its stone channels. Half an hour above town stands the roofless Spanish Mosque, and from it the whole blue sprawl reads as one piece at sunset. Some 46,000 people live here, and the slopes behind them are Talassemtane National Park, green and flowering through April and May, when the Akchour cascades run at full force.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come out at first light — until the day-trip buses from Tangier and Fez arrive late morning the lanes belong to cats and bread deliveries, and the low sun keeps the blue soft rather than glaring.
  • Give the Akchour gorge a full day — the trailhead is a 30 km drive out, and after heavy winter rain the river crossings to the upper cascade can be impassable.
  • The medina is car-free and steeply cobbled — park outside Bab el-Ain and wear shoes with grip, because the polished stone lanes turn slick as soon as it rains.
  • Expect quiet offers of kif — the Rif's cannabis fields are close by, a polite refusal ends the conversation, and buying is still illegal in Morocco.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Lose the thread in the blue medina

    Lose the thread in the blue medina

    The lanes are barely two people wide and every turn changes the shade: cobalt underfoot, powder blue at shoulder height, indigo in the shadowed archways. Stop at the old wooden doors, studded with brass bosses and set into keyhole arches, and you can read the layers — lime, pigment, another coat over last year's, chipped back at the handle. The medina is small enough that walking without a destination costs you nothing.

  2. 2

    Climb to the Spanish Mosque for the whole town at once

    Climb to the Spanish Mosque for the whole town at once

    A half-hour walk up the bare hill east of the medina brings you to the roofless colonial mosque nobody ever used. From its terrace the blue houses stack down the slope in one unbroken sheet, with the two Rif peaks closing the frame behind them.

  3. 3

    Take a terrace at the hour the blue turns violet

    Take a terrace at the hour the blue turns violet

    Late light is when the walls stop being blue and go faintly violet, and the white plaster edges pick up gold. Order mint tea on a rooftop above Uta el-Hammam square and watch the colour drain out of the medina while the call to prayer crosses the valley.

  4. 4

    Watch the washing at the Ras el-Maa spring

    Watch the washing at the Ras el-Maa spring

    At the upper edge of the medina the mountain water comes out of the rock and runs through open stone channels. Women still bring laundry down to it, cats sleep on the warm steps above, and the sound of the water follows you back into the lanes.

  5. 5

    Hike the gorge to the Akchour cascades

    Hike the gorge to the Akchour cascades

    An hour out of town the Talassemtane hills open into a green limestone gorge with a river running through it. The path crosses the water on planks and boulders to a tall cascade and a cold pool; it runs hardest in spring, and by late summer it slows to a thread.

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