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Mount Roraima

Mount Roraima

PeaksBolívar, Venezuela
August·Quiet month

Jun–Aug

June's rains peak here: the trail turns to a mud slog, the Tek and Kukenán fords can rise until the crossing stalls for days, and the summit sits lost in cloud. Nothing closes, guides still run it, but the clear view hides while waterfalls roar.



Year-round The 400-metre-walled summit, its black-sandstone maze, quartz valleys and endemic sun-pitchers and pebble toad, stands every day, reached only up the single ramp with licensed Pemón guides; December–March is the dry trekking season.

Mount Roraima is a two-billion-year-old island in the sky — a tabletop mountain whose sheer cliffs wall its summit off from everything below. It rises from the grasslands of the Gran Sabana at the point where Venezuela, Guyana and Brazil meet, the highest of a chain of flat-topped "tepuis" at 2,810 metres. Its sandstone is among the oldest exposed rock on Earth, and the 400-metre walls have kept the plateau isolated for millions of years — long enough to make it an evolutionary island where roughly a third of the species live nowhere else, from carnivorous sun-pitcher plants to a small black toad that curls into a ball and bounces down the rocks to escape hunting tarantulas. When Victorian explorers brought back word of this walled world, Arthur Conan Doyle turned it into "The Lost World," his 1912 novel of a plateau where prehistoric creatures survived. The summit is a maze of black sandstone carved by wind and rain into towers and hollows, scattered with the clear quartz of the "Valley of Crystals" and amber rain-pools that trekkers call jacuzzis. Reaching it means a multi-day trek from the Pemón village of Paraitepui, crossing savanna and rivers before a single natural ledge — "the ramp" — climbs the one non-technical route to the top. You sleep in "hotels" under rock overhangs, wake inside drifting cloud, and can stand at a marker where three countries meet at once. Getting here is a real expedition: the climb is allowed only with licensed Pemón guides, runs about six days round trip, and is best in the December-to-April dry season, when the trail is firmer and the summit clearer.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Roraima is usually wrapped in cloud — the summit clears for minutes at a time, so build spare days into the trek and the open, three-country views will eventually come.
  • You can climb only with a licensed Pemón guide from Paraitepui — independent ascents are barred and the round trip takes about six days, so book well ahead and plan the time.
  • Pack for cold, wet nights even this close to the equator — summit weather turns within minutes and you sleep in open rock shelters, so waterproofs, warm layers and sturdy boots matter.
  • The "ramp" is the mountain's only walk-up route — a natural ledge slanting up the cliff; every other face of Roraima needs ropes and technical climbing.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Trek across the Gran Sabana

    Trek across the Gran Sabana

    The trek begins at the Pemón village of Paraitepui, the last point a road reaches, and crosses open grassland for the first days of the walk with a licensed Pemón guide and porters. There is almost no shade on the savanna, and two rivers have to be waded, so groups start early and camp beside the water. The first camps sit at the foot of the mountain, where Roraima's 400-metre cliff wall rises directly overhead and the route up is still hidden.

  2. 2

    Camp beneath rock overhangs

    Camp beneath rock overhangs

    Nights on the summit are spent in what the guides call hotels: flat, dry patches of ground beneath big sandstone overhangs. They have no walls, only a rock roof that keeps off the near-constant rain and wind, and even this close to the equator the nights are cold and damp at 2,810 metres. You wake inside drifting cloud, with the black rock dripping and almost nothing visible beyond the shelter.

  3. 3

    Explore the Valley of Crystals

    Explore the Valley of Crystals

    The Valley of Crystals is a stretch of the summit where clear quartz has collected in the hollows of the black sandstone, lying loose in clusters that crunch underfoot and flash whenever the sun breaks through the cloud. The crystals were locked in this two-billion-year-old rock and were left behind as rain slowly wore the softer sandstone away around them. Everything on the summit is protected, so guides ask visitors to look closely and leave every piece where it lies.

  4. 4

    Relax in natural jacuzzis

    Relax in natural jacuzzis

    Rain falls on the summit almost every day, and it gathers in round hollows worn into the black sandstone that trekkers call the jacuzzis. The water is rain, tinted amber where it lies over dark rock and plant debris, and it is cold enough to take your breath away. The pools sit a short walk from the summit camps, and most groups go in the middle of the day, when the cloud is likeliest to lift and the whole plateau falls quiet.

  5. 5

    Admire the tepuis from the viewpoint

    Admire the tepuis from the viewpoint

    On the savanna crossing the trail passes a rise where both tabletop mountains stand in view at once: Roraima and its neighbour Kukenán, each ending in a sheer wall hundreds of metres high. Late in the day the sun drops behind them and the two summits flatten into black outlines above the grass. It is the clearest point on the whole trek to see how sharply the tepuis are cut off from the plain they rise out of.

Watch

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