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Atacama Desert

Atacama Desert

DesertsChileAntofagasta,Chile

The driest desert outside the poles, in northern Chile, with skies so clear the great observatories sit here and the Milky Way casts a shadow.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Dec

Spring into early summer stays dry and clear. Days warm toward 25°C by December and nights are calm and full of stars, though the galactic core sinks low and is again visible only before dawn. In rare wet years the far-southern desert blooms from September to November.



Year-round The salt flats, moonscapes, high-plateau lagoons and El Tatio's geysers stand all year under some of Earth's darkest skies. The air is clearest in the dry cold of winter, and summer storms over the high plateau cloud the sky over.

The Atacama is so dry that its core may have gone from 1570 to 1971 without a single significant rainfall, and some of its weather stations have never recorded rain at all. It stretches across a high plateau in northern Chile, walled off from ocean moisture on both sides, and it is the driest nonpolar desert on Earth. That thin, bone-dry air holds almost no water vapour and scatters almost no light, which gives the Atacama some of the clearest skies on the planet. The world's great observatories cluster here as a result: the 66 antennas of ALMA on the 5,000-metre Chajnantor plateau, the Very Large Telescope on Cerro Paranal. The ground is nearly as strange as the sky — parts of it are so sterile that scientists come here to rehearse looking for life on other planets. Days here feel like travelling across other worlds. Before dawn you cross the altiplano to El Tatio, at 4,320 metres the largest geyser field in the southern hemisphere, where some 80 geysers fire columns of steam into the freezing air. The Salar de Atacama itself is a crust of rough grey salt rather than a clean white pan, and its southern end is worked for lithium brine. But the desert saves its signature for night: in air this dark, the Milky Way burns bright enough to throw a faint shadow at your feet, and Saturn's rings hang sharp in a small telescope. San Pedro de Atacama, an adobe village at 2,400 metres, is the base for all of it.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Pick a new-moon night for stargazing — with no moon to wash out the sky, the Milky Way's bright core stands out, riding highest on the cold, clear nights of southern winter.
  • Give yourself a day to acclimatize — El Tatio and the altiplano lagoons top 4,000 metres, so settle into San Pedro at 2,400 metres first and move slowly up high.
  • Bring sandals and a towel for the salt lagoons — you float effortlessly in water saltier than the sea, but the crust cuts bare feet and there is nowhere to rinse the brine off.
  • Come in the dry winter, roughly May to September, for the steadiest, clearest skies; after rare rains the desert can erupt into a wildflower bloom around September to November.

Things to do

  1. 1

    See Valle de la Luna shift from orange to purple

    See Valle de la Luna shift from orange to purple

    Hike a salt-and-clay ridge in the Valle de la Luna, west of San Pedro, as the low sun turns the wind-carved badlands from orange to deep purple and finally black. In the cooling evening the salt crust sometimes crackles faintly as it contracts.

  2. 2

    Catch the dawn at El Tatio geysers

    Catch the dawn at El Tatio geysers

    Set out in the dark to reach El Tatio at 4,320 metres (14,170 ft). As the first light hits, some 80 geysers billow columns of steam into the freezing air, then shrink as the ground warms. It is the largest geyser field in the southern hemisphere.

  3. 3

    See the crimson rocks of Piedras Rojas

    See the crimson rocks of Piedras Rojas

    Walk the short path between the water and the outcrops at Piedras Rojas, where rock stained crimson by iron oxide runs straight up to a turquoise salt lagoon. The site sits on the altiplano south-east of San Pedro at over 4,000 metres, high enough that the thin air and the cold are part of the visit.

  4. 4

    Tell the three flamingos apart at Laguna Chaxa

    Tell the three flamingos apart at Laguna Chaxa

    Laguna Chaxa, in the Soncor sector of the Los Flamencos reserve, is where all three Andean flamingo species feed on the same salt crust. Sort them by the legs: grey with pink joints is the Chilean, plain yellow is the Andean, brick red is James's, the smallest and palest of the three. All of them filter the brine for microscopic life, which is also what turns their feathers pink.

  5. 5

    Watch the Milky Way cast a shadow

    Watch the Milky Way cast a shadow

    Under some of the darkest skies on Earth, a guide swings a telescope onto Saturn's rings while the Milky Way arches overhead so brightly it throws a faint shadow at your feet. On a moonless night the galactic core glows over the desert like a second, softer dawn.

  6. 6

    Trace the Cordillera de la Sal from a balloon basket

    Trace the Cordillera de la Sal from a balloon basket

    From the air the ridges of Valle de la Luna stop being separate walls: they are one buckled salt fold running more than 100 kilometres. Balloons leave the salt flat twenty minutes out of San Pedro and stay up about an hour, Licancabur reddening on the eastern skyline.

Watch

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