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Dent de Man

Dent de Man

PeaksIvory CoastTonkpi (Man),Ivory Coast

A twin-pointed granite tooth standing 881 metres over Man, the Ivorian town called the City of 18 Mountains, climbed on roots and bare hands.

September·Peaking now

Aug–Sep

The year's heaviest rain, near 280 mm a month, sends the district's waterfalls — the Zadepleu granite staircase among them — running at full thunder. The Tooth itself stays greasy and cloud-hidden: this is the falls' season, not the summit's.



Year-round The twin-pointed rock, the liana bridges and the Gbêpleu monkeys are there every month; what turns through the year is the rain, the Harmattan haze and whether the granite is dry enough to climb.

The Dent de Man is a twin-pointed tooth of granite standing 881 metres over the town of Man, in the Tonkpi region of western Ivory Coast, the City of 18 Mountains, and it is climbed on roots and bare hands up the last stretch of rock, in the country of the Dan people, whose villages own bridges woven from lianas and whose masks dance on stilts. The path leaves a village eight kilometres out of town, crosses farm plots and enters forest before the last stretch turns into a hands-and-roots scramble on bare granite to the notch between the two points, three hours up; in August and September the rain runs close to 280 millimetres a month, which greases the granite and hides the points in cloud, so the climb is a dry-season one, from November to April. The mountains around Man are the western highlands of the country, granite domes rising out of forest and coffee, and the town is the base for all of them. The Dan bridges are the region's other wonder. Not a nail or a strand of steel goes into them: they are woven from forest lianas, hung across the rivers and rewoven by the villages that own them as the vines rot, and Dan tradition holds that a bridge is not built but thrown across in a single night, the work of spirits helped by a sacred spider that weaves the cables; the crossing sways underfoot with the river below. Three kilometres out of town on the Mont Tonkoui road the river comes down a broad staircase of granite ledges at Zadepleu into a shaded pool, loud after rain and a thin curtain in the dry months, and a sacred grove at Gbêpleu shelters a troop of green monkeys that Dan tradition protects. The best-known Dan mask, the gué gblin, dances several metres up on stilts in acrobatics that look impossible at that height. The Dent de Man is a tooth of granite climbed by hand, and the country around it is held together by vines.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Aim for the edges of the dry season, November or March — the trail is dry at both ends of it, while December and January bring Sahara dust that can flatten the long views into haze.
  • Arrange a guide in Man before you set out — the path starts from the village at the mountain's foot, some eight kilometres out, and the round trip runs five to six hours.
  • There are no rails and no fixed ropes — the last stretch is a steep scramble over rock and roots, so keep both hands free and wear shoes that actually grip.
  • The liana bridges are village property, not attractions — leave a contribution with the family that maintains the one you cross, and ask before you point a camera at anyone.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Climb the Tooth of Man

    Climb the Tooth of Man

    The path leaves a village eight kilometres out of Man, crosses farm plots and enters forest before the last stretch turns into a hands-and-roots scramble on bare granite. There are no rails and no fixed ropes on it, so carry nothing you cannot leave both hands free of, and watch the sky: dry rock grips like sandpaper and goes greasy within minutes of a shower. Reckon on five to six hours there and back, and pick your month — in December and January the Sahara dust that hangs over the valley can flatten the whole view into haze.

  2. 2

    Cross a traditional liana suspension bridge

    Cross a traditional liana suspension bridge

    Not a nail or a strand of steel goes into these bridges: they are woven from forest lianas and rewoven by the villages that own them as the vines rot. The deck sways and springs under each step, the river slides past below, and children from the village swim in the pools while you inch across.

  3. 3

    Bathe at the granite staircase of Zadepleu

    Bathe at the granite staircase of Zadepleu

    Three kilometres out of town on the Mont Tonkoui road, the river comes down a broad staircase of granite ledges into a shaded pool, loud and full after rain, a thin white curtain in the dry months. Ivorians come to swim at the foot of it; the grove is sacred ground to the Yacouba, so take your cue from the guide.

  4. 4

    Meet the sacred monkeys of Gbêpleu

    A small sacred grove three kilometres from the city centre shelters a troop of green monkeys that Dan tradition protects. They have never been hunted here, so they come right up to people. Hold out a banana and they climb down the trunks and take it from your hand, close enough to hear them chew. The families who guard the grove ask one thing: never chase or grab them.

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