Durdle Door is a wall of limestone standing on its edge, with a doorway the sea has punched clean through it. Getting down means a steep path from the clifftop and a long flight of steps to a shingle beach in the arch's shadow. The water is cold Channel water, clear over pale stone and turquoise on a bright day, and swimmers push off and pass under the arch to the open sea. For two weeks either side of the winter solstice the sunrise lines up with the hole and burns through it. The rock is Portland limestone, roughly 150 million years old, and the bands in it run up and down rather than side to side.
That tilt is the whole story of the place. The beds lay flat until about 30 million years ago, when the collision that raised the Alps buckled southern England and stood them almost upright. The upended limestone now follows the shoreline as a hard wall, with roughly 120 metres of much softer rock stacked behind it, and the waves found a weak point and hollowed out everything behind. The door itself is young: about 10,000 years old, opened as the sea rose after the last ice age. Its name is older than modern English — durdle comes from thirl, an Old English word meaning to pierce. All of this belongs to the Jurassic Coast, England's first natural World Heritage Site, whose cliffs lay out 185 million years of history in order. The sea has not finished. Waves keep undercutting the seaward leg, UNESCO teams monitor the rock, and geologists expect the door to fall one day and leave a stone stack offshore.