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Îles du Salut (Devil's Island)

Îles du Salut (Devil's Island)

IslandsFrench GuianaKourou,French Guiana

Three jungle-covered islands off French Guiana that held France's harshest penal colony until 1953, their ruined cellblocks now under rocket flight paths.

September·Peaking now

Jul–Nov

July to November is the long dry season on the Salut islands.



Year-round The jungle-swallowed penal-colony ruins and their shark-filled channels stand year-round, and Devil's Island itself stays off-limits; the long dry season, July to November, calms the Kourou boat crossing.

The Îles du Salut are three jungle-covered islands fifteen kilometres off the coast of French Guiana, near Kourou, that held France's harshest penal colony from 1852 until 1953, Devil's Island among them, and their ruined cellblocks under the coconut palms now lie beneath the flight paths of the rockets launched from the space centre on the mainland. The name means Islands of Salvation, which sounds like bitter irony for a prison, but it is a century older than the colony and meant what it says: settlers dying of fever on the mainland in 1763 found the islands healthier and were saved by them. Île Royale was the headquarters, with the barracks, the chapel, the hospital and the director's house, now a small inn, in walkable ruins among the palms; Île Saint-Joseph held the solitary confinement blocks, where men spent years in silence in roofless cells that the jungle has grown into, and a weathered stone cross rises among the coconut palms in the guards' cemetery. Devil's Island itself, the smallest, was for political prisoners, most famously Alfred Dreyfus, who spent four years in a hut there, and it is closed to visitors. From the shore of Île Royale Devil's Island lies across a narrow channel, a low hump of palms that seems close enough to swim to, though the current between them is what kept the prisoners in. The islands entered legend through Papillon, Henri Charrière's 1969 memoir of a convict's escape from them on a raft of coconuts, a global bestseller and two films, much of which was probably borrowed from other men's stories. On the exposed side the Atlantic swell pounds bare rock beneath wind-bent palms, and agoutis, macaws and monkeys have the ruins. A catamaran crosses from Kourou for the day, most reliably in the dry season of September and October, and launches from the space centre are watched from the islands. The Îles du Salut are a prison that the jungle is taking back, and the rockets go over it.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come in the dry season, July to December — the sea is calmer and boat crossings far more reliable; wet-season swell cancels sailings more often and leaves the trails muddy.
  • Check the Kourou launch schedule before you go — the islands sit under the Guiana Space Centre's rocket flight path and are cleared of visitors during every launch.
  • Bring water, sun cover and sturdy shoes — shade ends where the forest paths end, the equatorial sun is fierce, and the ruined cellblocks are uneven with loose stone underfoot.
  • The old prison paths belong to the animals now — half-tame red-rumped agoutis, capuchin and squirrel monkeys trot the shaded trails largely unbothered by people, often at close range.

Things to do

  1. 1

    See Devil's Island across the channel

    See Devil's Island across the channel

    From the shore of Île Royale you look across a narrow channel at Devil's Island, a low hump covered in palms that seems close enough to swim to. It never was: sharks and violent currents run through that channel, and no prisoner ever managed to cross it. On its point stands the small stone hut where Alfred Dreyfus spent four years in solitary confinement; he and the handful of other political prisoners were carried over by a cable car strung above the water. Landing there is still forbidden, so this view from across the strait is as close as anyone gets.

  2. 2

    Stand at the guards' cemetery

    Stand at the guards' cemetery

    A weathered stone cross rises among the coconut palms on Île Saint-Joseph. It marks the graves of the colony's own staff, the guards and officials who died on an island built to punish other people. The sea and Devil's Island lie in view just beyond it.

  3. 3

    View Saint-Joseph from the water

    View Saint-Joseph from the water

    Approaching by boat, Île Saint-Joseph looks like a solid green dome of coconut palms rising straight out of the Atlantic. At the waterline it is bare rock, taking the swell head-on. Nothing you can see from the water suggests the isolation cells standing under that canopy.

  4. 4

    Watch waves break on the wild shore

    Watch waves break on the wild shore

    On the exposed side of the islands, Atlantic swell pounds bare rock beneath wind-bent palms. The same currents drive through the channels between the three islands, and they are the reason the prison never needed a wall in the water. Standing here makes it obvious why so few prisoners tried to swim.

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