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Îles du Salut (Devil's Island)

Îles du Salut (Devil's Island)

IslandsKourou, French Guiana
August·Peaking now

Jul–Nov

July to November is the long dry season: the Atlantic settles, the daily catamaran adds its second rotation, and the shaded trails past the roofless cells run firm, driest of all in September and October.



Year-round The jungle-swallowed penal-colony ruins and their shark-filled channels stand year-round, and Devil's Island itself stays off-limits; the long dry season, July to November, calms the Kourou boat crossing.

The Îles du Salut — the “Islands of Salvation” — earned that hopeful name in the 1760s, when survivors of a catastrophic colonization scheme fled here to escape the fevers killing thousands on the mainland and found refuge on these breezy, near mosquito-free islands. A century later France made a grim joke of the name: from 1852 to 1953 the three specks off the coast of Kourou became its most notorious penal colony. Île Royale held the general population, Île Saint-Joseph the solitary-confinement cells, and the smallest — Île du Diable, Devil's Island — a handful of political prisoners, among them Captain Alfred Dreyfus, kept more than four years in isolation during the affair that split France. Escape was almost impossible: sharks and violent currents fill the channels, and the only link to Devil's Island was a cable car strung above the water. The colony closed in 1953, and the jungle has swallowed most of it. Roofless cellblocks, a chapel, a hospital and warders' quarters stand vine-wrapped beneath a dense canopy of coconut palms, the ruins now as much a part of each island as the granite shore. Most visitors land on Île Royale, the largest island and the only one with facilities, and walk shaded trails past crumbling cells, an old lighthouse and a small cemetery, with a clear view across the strait to Devil's Island — still off-limits, guarded by the currents that once made it inescapable. A short crossing reaches Île Saint-Joseph and its roofless isolation block, open to the sky and half-eaten by roots. Strangest of all is what passes overhead: the islands lie under the flight path of the Guiana Space Centre and are cleared of people during every launch, so an Ariane rocket rising over an old prison yard is the modern counterpoint to a place built around isolation.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come in the dry season, July to December — the sea is calmer and boat crossings far more reliable; wet-season swell cancels sailings more often and leaves the trails muddy.
  • Base your visit on Île Royale, the only island with trails and facilities — Devil's Island itself can't be landed on and is seen only from across the strait, walled off by its currents.
  • Check the Kourou launch schedule before you go — the islands sit under the Guiana Space Centre's rocket flight path and are cleared of visitors during every launch.
  • Bring water, sun cover and sturdy shoes — shade ends where the forest paths end, the equatorial sun is fierce, and the ruined cellblocks are uneven with loose stone underfoot.
  • The old prison paths belong to the animals now — half-tame red-rumped agoutis, capuchin and squirrel monkeys trot the shaded trails largely unbothered by people, often at close range.

Things to do

  1. 1

    See Devil's Island across the channel

    See Devil's Island across the channel

    From the shore of Île Royale you look across a narrow channel at Devil's Island, a low hump covered in palms that seems close enough to swim to. It never was: sharks and violent currents run through that channel, and no prisoner ever managed to cross it. The handful of political prisoners held on the island, Alfred Dreyfus among them, were carried over by a cable car strung above the water. Landing there is still forbidden, so this view from across the strait is as close as anyone gets.

  2. 2

    Pick out Dreyfus's stone hut across the strait

    Pick out Dreyfus's stone hut across the strait

    A small stone hut on Île du Diable's point marks where Alfred Dreyfus spent four years in solitary confinement. You can't land there — the currents forbid it — so you read it from across the water, palm-shaded foundations set against the open Atlantic.

  3. 3

    Stand at the guards' cemetery

    Stand at the guards' cemetery

    A weathered stone cross rises among the coconut palms on Île Saint-Joseph. It marks the graves of the colony's own staff, the guards and officials who died on an island built to punish other people. The sea and Devil's Island lie in view just beyond it.

  4. 4

    View Saint-Joseph from the water

    View Saint-Joseph from the water

    Approaching by boat, Île Saint-Joseph looks like a solid green dome of coconut palms rising straight out of the Atlantic. At the waterline it is bare rock, taking the swell head-on. Nothing you can see from the water suggests the isolation cells standing under that canopy.

  5. 5

    Watch waves break on the wild shore

    Watch waves break on the wild shore

    On the exposed side of the islands, Atlantic swell pounds bare rock beneath wind-bent palms. The same currents drive through the channels between the three islands, and they are the reason the prison never needed a wall in the water. Standing here makes it obvious why so few prisoners tried to swim.

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