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Kingston, Norfolk Island

Kingston, Norfolk Island

IslandsNorfolk IslandSouth Pacific Ocean,Norfolk Island

A Georgian convict town on Norfolk Island, built of limestone by the men held in it and handed to Bounty mutineers' descendants in 1856.

September·Peaking now

Jul–Oct

Cool and wet, and the island's quietest peak: humpbacks are offshore, the grass at Kingston is deep green, and the ruins are almost to yourself. The lagoon sits near 20°C, so this is a season for walking rather than swimming.



Year-round The Georgian ruins, Quality Row and the Emily Bay lagoon stand every day of the year, reachable by air year-round; what shifts is the water's warmth, the rains, and the passing whales and terns.

Kingston is a Georgian town of limestone on the south coast of Norfolk Island, an Australian territory in the South Pacific between New Zealand and New Caledonia, built by the convicts held in it in the harshest penal settlement of the empire and handed in 1856 to the descendants of the Bounty mutineers, who were moved here from Pitcairn and still live on the island, and it is walked along Quality Row, read in a cemetery above the surf and swum beside in a lagoon closed by reef. The settlement was a prison twice, from 1788 and again from 1825 to 1855, when the worst of the convicts of Sydney were sent here to be broken, and the men built the town that held them, the gaol whose walls stand, the boat shed on the foreshore, the stone bridges and the eleven Georgian houses of Quality Row along the ridge for the officers, laid out deliberately above and apart from the men below; the cemetery on the point says plainly how each person died, drowned, hanged, taken by a whale, carried off by typhoid, and the graves of the mutineers' descendants lie beside them. East Polynesians reached this bay centuries before the British and left a marae, a ceremonial platform, buried in the dunes until the archaeologists dug it out. Emily Bay beside the town is closed off by a coral reef that holds it flat while the open swell breaks in a white line further out, the island's swimming place, and the whaleboats sit hauled up on the grass beside the convict boat shed at Slaughter Bay, still used to unload the supply ship through the surf, since the island has no harbour. The islanders speak Norf'k, eighteenth-century sailors' English tangled with Tahitian, carried here from Pitcairn, and humpbacks pass from July to October with their blows visible from the high ground above the town, the sooty terns returning with them to nest on the islets offshore. Kingston is a prison built by its prisoners, and the mutineers' children inherited it.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Emily Bay is the only water the reef keeps calm — swim or snorkel on a rising tide, when there is real depth over the coral heads. Everywhere else on this coast is open ocean.
  • Come to the ruins in the last hour of daylight — the coral-sand stone turns honey-gold, and low sun rakes across the chisel marks the quarry gangs left in each block.
  • Scan the sea from the high ground above the cemetery — on calm mornings from July to October humpback blows show up plainly from shore, so you do not need a boat.
  • The one date worth planning around is 8 June — Bounty Day is a public holiday, shops shut, and the whole island spends the day down at Kingston. Come to watch, not to run errands.
  • Free-range cattle have right of way — cows and chickens wander the unfenced roads and will not move for you, so drive slowly, especially at dusk.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Swim the reef-sheltered lagoon at Emily Bay

    Swim the reef-sheltered lagoon at Emily Bay

    A coral reef closes off Emily Bay and holds it flat while the open swell breaks in a white line further out. You can snorkel over coral heads and reef fish with the convict boat sheds in plain sight behind you. A grassy path runs on behind the dunes towards Slaughter Bay, backed the whole way by Norfolk pines.

  2. 2

    Stand among the longboats at the convict boat shed

    Stand among the longboats at the convict boat shed

    Heavy wooden whaleboats sit hauled up on the grass beside the stone boat shed the convicts built on the Slaughter Bay foreshore. Islanders still row boats like these ashore on Bounty Day, and out past the surf line lies Nepean Island, the quarry that produced every block around you.

  3. 3

    Read the headstones in the cemetery above the surf

    Read the headstones in the cemetery above the surf

    The stones say plainly how each person died: drowned, hanged, taken by a whale, carried off by typhoid. Over the convicts executed after the 1834 mutiny the lettering is short and badly cut, as if friends did the work instead of a mason. The Bounty surnames on the newer stones are the same names on the shopfronts up the hill.

  4. 4

    Walk Quality Row, the street the convicts built

    Eleven Georgian houses stand in a row along the ridge, built for the officers who ran the prison — the layout deliberately put them above and apart from the men below. Number 10 is now a house museum, number 9 a research centre, and number 1 the clubhouse of the island's golf course.

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