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Lake Khövsgöl

Lake Khövsgöl

LakesMongoliaKhövsgöl,Mongolia

Mongolia's Mother Sea: an ancient rift lake holding seventy percent of the country's fresh water, ridden around on horseback, with reindeer herders in the taiga.

September·Edge of season

Sep

The larches turn gold along the shore and the crowds thin, yet most camps stay open into mid-September; the long summer dusk finally fades, leaving the darkest, densest skies of the year for stargazing.



Year-round Mongolia's clear 'Mother Sea' and its taiga shore are here year-round; the summer meadows and the winter ice road are the seasonal extremes.

Lake Khövsgöl is the largest lake in Mongolia by volume, an ancient rift lake 136 kilometres long in the far north near the Siberian border, holding seventy percent of the country's fresh water, so clear that a white disc can be seen eighteen metres down, and it is ridden around on horseback with reindeer herders in the taiga beyond its northern shore. Mongolians call it the Mother Sea. The lake is fed only by small mountain streams and carries almost no nutrients, so nothing clouds it, and from an open canoe launched from a quiet cove the pale stones and sunken logs seem to hang just below the hull; the shore is larch forest and meadow, with the Sayan mountains on the far side, and for a few summer weeks wildflowers cover the lakeside as the Darkhad and Tsaatan herders raise their gers and graze their horses. Along the shore stand ovoos, stone cairns strung with blue silk scarves, and passing herders add a stone and circle each one three times clockwise, as you do. The way to see the lake is the way the country is crossed, on a hardy Mongolian horse along the wooded shoreline, sleeping in ger camps. North of the lake the taiga holds the Tsaatan, the reindeer people, perhaps two to three hundred of them in around thirty families, one of the last such cultures on Earth, living in bark-and-canvas tipis rather than the round felt gers of the plains and moving their herds through the forest; a ride of days reaches their camps, and a night with a family among the reindeer is the far end of the journey. In deep winter the whole lake freezes into a sheet of clear ice more than a metre thick, solid enough that Soviet convoys once drove fuel tankers straight across it from Siberia until the trucks that fell through were banned, and in early March the Ice Festival fills the surface with horse sledges, wrestling and ice sculpture. Khövsgöl is a sea that Mongolia keeps for itself, and the reindeer live at the end of it.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • June to early September is the only dependable window — outside it the shore tracks turn to mud and many ger camps close, while deep winter reopens the lake as solid ice.
  • No road circles the lake — the rough east-shore track from Hatgal is slow and 4WD-only, and reaching the northern reindeer camps means hours on horseback, not wheels.
  • Treat the shoreline as sacred ground — the water is clean enough to drink, so camp and wash well back from it and carry every scrap of waste back out.
  • With no town for hundreds of kilometres, the night sky here is exceptionally dark and dense with stars; the show is best once the long summer dusk finally fades after August.
  • A visit to the Tsaatan reindeer herders is a trip in itself — their taiga camps lie days north by horse, so arrange it ahead and come as a respectful guest.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Add a stone to a shoreline ovoo

    Add a stone to a shoreline ovoo

    Walk out to one of the stone cairns strung with blue silk scarves that stand along the shore, add a rock as passing herders do, and circle it three times clockwise. These ovoos mark the lake's place as sacred ground, watched over by local spirits.

  2. 2

    Ride the taiga shore on horseback

    Ride the taiga shore on horseback

    Set out along the wooded shoreline on a hardy Mongolian horse, the way local families cross this country. You weave between larch trunks, with the blue water flashing on one side and the forest climbing to the peaks on the other. It is the classic way to reach coves no road touches.

  3. 3

    Paddle an open canoe over the sunken shallows

    Paddle an open canoe over the sunken shallows

    Launch an open canoe from a quiet cove and paddle out over water so clear the pale stones and sunken logs seem to hang just below the hull. Lean over the gunwale where the shallows fall away and the bottom slides past several metres down, then dip a hand in — it runs cold and clean enough to drink straight off your fingers. It is the closest way to feel how much lake lies beneath you.

  4. 4

    Ride north to a Tsaatan reindeer camp

    Head into the taiga north of the lake to stay with a Tsaatan family and their herd of domesticated reindeer, one of the last such cultures on Earth. Reached only after days on horseback, the camps of bark-and-canvas tipis offer a glimpse of a nomadic life built around the forest.

  5. 5

    Cross the frozen lake at the Ice Festival

    Come in late winter, when the lake freezes into a sheet of clear ice more than a metre thick. Join the ice festival held on its surface: horse-drawn sleds, ice-skating, tug-of-war and wrestling on the frozen lake. The taiga stands silver and the whole place turns still and blue.

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