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Lake Turkana (Jade Sea)

Lake Turkana (Jade Sea)

LakesTurkana County, Kenya
August·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

The most bearable stretch: coolest air and driest ground, with July and August the year's mildest and the overland route at its firmest. Everything is open, boats run to the volcanic islands, and the afternoon wind whips the lake to whitecaps.


Year-round The jade-green desert sea, its crocodiles and fossil shores are here year-round, glassy and molten-orange at dusk when the afternoon wind drops; the cooler months are most bearable.

Lake Turkana is the largest permanent desert lake on Earth — a jade-green inland sea stretching more than 250 kilometres through the black-lava badlands of Kenya's far north. Fed almost entirely by Ethiopia's Omo River and with no outlet, it loses water only to evaporation, concentrating the algae that rise to the surface in calm weather and stain it a cloudy jade — the reason it has long been called the Jade Sea. It is also the world's largest alkaline lake, and the sediment beds around its shores hold one of the richest records of human origins anywhere: Turkana Boy, a near-complete Homo erectus skeleton of a youth who lived about 1.6 million years ago, was lifted from the western shore in 1984. Two active volcanic islands, Central and South, still steam above their crater lakes, and the national parks that ring the water are a UNESCO World Heritage Site for both the fossils and the otherworldly land. Reaching the lake means crossing some of Kenya's harshest country — lava fields, bare desert, and the grazing lands of Turkana and Samburu herders. The reward is the colour itself, turquoise shallows deepening to jade against black rock and pale sand, with Nile crocodiles basking along the margins in one of the largest concentrations left in Africa. Evening is the lake's finest hour: the wind that whips up most afternoons finally drops, the water flattens to glass, and fishing boats slip out silhouetted against a sky gone molten orange. That colour now comes with a warning — since Ethiopia's Gibe III dam began regulating the Omo in 2015, far less water reaches the lake, and in 2018 UNESCO added it to the List of World Heritage in Danger.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The overland drive is long and rough — allow several days in a sturdy 4x4 or fly in, and carry your own water, fuel and food beyond the last towns.
  • Sun and heat are extreme all year — there is almost no shade on the shore, so cover up, drink constantly, and treat midday as time to rest.
  • Swim only where locals point you — the lake holds one of Africa's densest Nile crocodile populations, plus hippos, so never wade in blind however calm the shallows look.
  • Take boats out in the morning — the wind builds sharply most afternoons and can turn the crossing to the volcanic islands rough, while dawn water lies calm and glassy.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Peer into the crater's green pools

    Peer into the crater's green pools

    On South Island a cluster of small crater pools holds water in vivid shades of emerald, ringed by cooled black lava. You get there by boat and then on foot, scrambling up bare volcanic rock, and each pool sits inside its own crater, out of sight until you are on the rim.

  2. 2

    Cross by boat to a volcanic island

    Cross by boat to a volcanic island

    Central Island and South Island rise from the lake as active volcanic cones, each holding its own crater lakes. Reaching them means a boat crossing over open water that can turn choppy fast, then a scramble up bare volcanic rock to look down into the craters.

  3. 3

    Land on Central Island among the crocodiles

    Land on Central Island among the crocodiles

    A boat can put you ashore on Central Island, the steaming cone that locals simply call Crocodile Island, where three crater lakes named Crocodile, Flamingo and Tilapia sit inside the rim. Walk up to their warm shallows, one of the Nile crocodile's great breeding grounds, where the reptiles haul out in numbers through the breeding season.

  4. 4

    Reach the shore as the evening wind drops

    Reach the shore as the evening wind drops

    Come down to the beach in the last hour of daylight, when the fierce afternoon wind that the fishermen wait out finally falls away and the surface settles flat. Stand on the sand among the Turkana crews as they push their boats off for the night's fishing, the water ahead of them burning orange.

  5. 5

    Meet the lake's fishing community

    Meet the lake's fishing community

    Rows of wooden and fibreglass boats line the beaches of the lakeside villages. The crews mend their nets in whatever shade they can find and push the boats out in the evening, once the afternoon wind has dropped. Walk the beach then, ask before photographing anyone, and you will see the catch, Nile perch among it, come ashore.

  6. 6

    Walk the fossil beds at Koobi Fora

    On the lake's eastern shore, the eroding badlands of Koobi Fora and Sibiloi have given up more early-human fossils than almost anywhere on Earth. A ranger can walk you past the exposed sediment layers to a small museum where casts of the finds, some millions of years old, are laid out.

Watch

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