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Lake Turkana (Jade Sea)

Lake Turkana (Jade Sea)

LakesKenyaTurkana,Kenya

The largest permanent desert lake on Earth, 250 kilometres of jade water in Kenya's lava badlands, its shores holding the richest record of human origins.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

The most bearable stretch: coolest air and driest ground, with July and August the year's mildest and the overland route at its firmest. Everything is open, boats run to the volcanic islands, and the afternoon wind whips the lake to whitecaps.


Year-round The jade-green lake in the desert, its crocodiles and its fossil shores are here year-round. The afternoon wind drops at dusk, leaving the water flat and orange; the cooler months are the most bearable.

Lake Turkana is the largest permanent desert lake on Earth, 250 kilometres of jade-green water in the lava badlands of northern Kenya, in Turkana county on the Ethiopian border, with volcanic islands full of crocodiles rising from it, and its shores hold the richest record of human origins found anywhere. The lake has no outlet and lies in the Rift Valley among black lava fields and wind, fed by the Omo river from Ethiopia, and the algae that give it the name Jade Sea turn the water a green that changes with the light; it is a hard place to reach, a long drive on rough roads from Marsabit or Kitale to the fishing villages of Loiyangalani on the east shore or Kalokol on the west, where rows of wooden and fibreglass boats line the beaches and the crews mend nets in whatever shade there is until the fierce afternoon wind falls away. Central Island, ringed by three crater lakes inside its rim, is one of the great breeding grounds of the Nile crocodile, called Crocodile Island by the locals, and it and South Island, both active volcanic cones, are landed on by boat with a ranger. The eastern shore is Koobi Fora and the Sibiloi national park, where the eroding badlands have given up more early-human fossils than almost anywhere, with skulls of Homo habilis, Homo erectus and the robust australopithecines found by Richard Leakey's teams from the 1960s, and on the western shore in 1984 the fossil hunter Kamoya Kimeu spotted a scrap of skull on a dry riverbed at Nariokotome, the first trace of the most complete Homo erectus skeleton ever found, the Turkana Boy. Around the lake live the Turkana, Rendille and Samburu herders and, on the southeastern shore, the El Molo, a fishing people counted among the smallest ethnic groups in Kenya. The Loiyangalani festival each year brings the peoples of the lake together, and dams on the Omo in Ethiopia threaten its water. Lake Turkana is a sea in the desert where humans began, and the crocodiles have it now.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The overland drive is long and rough — allow several days in a sturdy 4x4 or fly in, and carry your own water, fuel and food beyond the last towns.
  • Sun and heat are extreme all year — there is almost no shade on the shore, so cover up, drink constantly, and treat midday as time to rest.
  • Swim only where locals point you — the lake holds one of Africa's densest Nile crocodile populations, plus hippos, so never wade in blind however calm the shallows look.
  • Take boats out in the morning — the wind builds sharply most afternoons and can turn the crossing to the volcanic islands rough, while dawn water lies calm and glassy.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Land on the volcanic islands among the crocodiles

    Land on the volcanic islands among the crocodiles

    Central and South Island rise from the lake as active volcanic cones, each holding crater lakes inside the rim. Getting there is an open-water crossing that can turn choppy fast, then a scramble up bare black rock. On Central Island, the steaming cone locals simply call Crocodile Island, three crater lakes named Crocodile, Flamingo and Tilapia stay hidden until you are on the rim. Their warm shallows are one of the Nile crocodile's great breeding grounds. On South Island a cluster of smaller pools holds water in vivid emerald, ringed by cooled black lava.

  2. 2

    Meet the lake's fishing crews at dusk

    Meet the lake's fishing crews at dusk

    Rows of wooden and fibreglass boats line the beaches of the lakeside villages, and the crews mend nets in whatever shade they can find until the fierce afternoon wind falls away. Come down once that wind has dropped, when the surface settles flat and the boats push off for the night's fishing with the water ahead of them burning orange. Ask before photographing anyone, and stay long enough to see the catch, Nile perch among it, come ashore.

  3. 3

    Walk the fossil beds at Koobi Fora

    On the lake's eastern shore, the eroding badlands of Koobi Fora and Sibiloi have given up more early-human fossils than almost anywhere on Earth. A ranger can walk you past the exposed sediment layers to a small museum where casts of the finds, some millions of years old, are laid out.

Watch

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