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Lopé National Park

Lopé National Park

ForestsGabonOgooué-Ivindo,Gabon

A Gabonese park where ice-age grassland still breaks the rainforest apart, opening sightlines onto forest elephants and mandrill columns hundreds strong.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

The long dry season: trails firm up, the mandrill hordes — 600-plus animals — pour across the savanna near the research station, thickest in July and August, and elephants and buffalo work the open grass. Skies stay cool and grey, not blue.



Year-round Forest elephants and buffalo step from the treeline onto open grass in the cool hours all year, a slow boat on the Ogooué opens sightlines the forest denies, and the 2,000-year-old rock engravings never close.

Lopé National Park is a park in the Ogooué-Ivindo province of central Gabon where grassland from the ice age still breaks the rainforest apart, a mosaic of savanna and forest along the Ogooué river that opens sightlines onto forest elephants grazing in the open and columns of mandrills hundreds strong, and it is driven and walked from the research station and the lodge at Lopé village on the railway from Libreville. The savannas are relics of a drier Africa twenty thousand years ago, kept open by burning while the forest closed in around them, and they are the reason the park works, since forest elephants that normally keep to thick cover step out onto the grass to feed and are watched from the ridges; trails climb out of the valley to open ridges where the mosaic reads at once, rainforest breaking into rolling savanna to the horizon, and short walks and dugout trips along the wide slow Ogooué reach outcrops engraved 2,000 years ago with spirals, concentric circles, lizards and the double-bladed throwing knives their makers used, hammered into the rock with iron points and dated by the pots found beside them. The park is a UNESCO site for the engravings and the forest together. The mandrills are the park's great sight, since a horde is made up of females and their young, and the adult males with their blue and red faces join it only while the females are cycling, from about June to September, when troops of 600 and more spill across the open savanna near the research station, tracked by the guides on the trail of radio-collared animals, thickest in July and August. The forest holds gorillas, chimpanzees and the fruit trees that the researchers count, since a single elephant meal can take the fruit of fifty trees, and the dry season is grey rather than blue, with mist lying in the savanna grass until mid-morning. The station has studied the park for forty years. Lopé is a forest with the ice age's grass still in it, and the animals come out onto the grass.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Mandrill tracking is a permitted, guided half-day on foot — trekkers set out from the SEGC research station and home in on radio-collared animals, so a sighting is likely but never promised.
  • Dry-season skies here are grey, not blue — June to September brings almost no rain but heavy low cloud and morning mist, so expect soft, flat light rather than hard equatorial sun.
  • Carry binoculars — elephants and buffalo appear at the forest edge across open grass, often far off, and the savanna gives you long, unhurried sightlines that rainforest never will.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Watch forest elephants graze the savanna

    Watch forest elephants graze the savanna

    Forest elephants normally keep to thick cover. They are smaller than savanna elephants, with straight tusks pointing downward, and almost nowhere else in their range can you watch them out on open grass. Take a place above the clearings towards dusk and wait for the treeline to open.

  2. 2

    Hike the grass ridges above the Ogooué

    Hike the grass ridges above the Ogooué

    Trails climb out of the valley to open ridges where the mosaic reads at once: rainforest breaking into rolling savanna as far as the horizon. Start early and the Chaillu foothills to the south are still wrapped in cloud, which the equatorial sun burns off within the first hour.

  3. 3

    Trace 2,000-year-old rock engravings

    Trace 2,000-year-old rock engravings

    Short walks and dugout trips along the wide, slow Ogooué reach the engraved outcrops, where the stone carries spirals, concentric circles, lizards and the double-bladed throwing knives their makers used. They were hammered out with iron points around 2,000 years ago, and no one has ever fully read them.

  4. 4

    Track a mandrill horde across the grass

    Guides work out from the research station on the trail of radio-collared animals. When a horde finally crosses open savanna the forest seems to empty into the grass: hundreds of monkeys at once, moving in a churn of shrieks and dust. Nothing else in the primate world travels in numbers like this.

Nearby

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Lobé Falls

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