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Mount Everest

Mount Everest

PeaksKhumbu, Nepal
August·Quiet month

Jun–Aug

Monsoon cloud sits on the peaks and Everest can hide for days; Lukla flights are cancelled more than in any other season, leeches work the lower forest and many high teahouses shut. The valley is green, wet and almost empty.



Year-round The great peaks, glaciers and Sherpa villages of the Khumbu are here all year, and no gate shuts the trail. Base Camp itself is bare moraine except during the spring climb.

Mount Everest carries marine fossils on its summit: the pale limestone crowning the highest point on Earth was a tropical sea floor some 450 million years ago, lifted skyward when the Indian and Eurasian plates collided. That collision is not finished — the mountain still rises a few millimetres a year. Its summit stands 8,848.86 metres above sea level, the figure Nepal and China agreed on after jointly resurveying the peak and announcing it in December 2020. Everest sits on their shared border in the Mahalangur Himal of eastern Nepal, and it goes by older names than the British one it bears today: Sagarmatha, head of the sky, to Nepalis, and Chomolungma, goddess mother of the world, to Tibetans. To the Sherpa who farm the valleys below, it is holy ground. Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the top first on 29 May 1953, and the climb is still mountaineering's ultimate test — though most people who come here never mean to summit. What draws them is the Everest Base Camp trek, a two-week walk up the Khumbu valley to the tented camps at the mountain's foot. It begins on the cliff-edge airstrip at Lukla and climbs more than two vertical kilometres through Sherpa villages and past hillside monasteries, the air thinning until breathing turns deliberate. The trail is lined with carved mani stones and wind-worn chortens, and the higher you go the quieter it grows. From Kala Patthar or Tengboche you wait for the moment before daybreak, when the first sun strikes the summit and turns it to fire while the valley below still lies in shadow. Far above, in the death zone over 8,000 metres, climbers still queue in the short spring weather windows for a turn on the final ridge.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Trek in autumn (October–November) for the year's clearest, most stable air — sharp all-day summit views and, after dark, some of the darkest skies on the route.
  • Walk between late March and mid-May and the forest below Tengboche runs red with blooming rhododendron, Nepal's national flower, which thins out above about 3,800 metres.
  • Climb Kala Patthar (5,545 m) at first light for the cleanest head-on view of the summit; from Tengboche you see only its dark pyramid behind the Nuptse–Lhotse wall.
  • Take the full acclimatisation day at Namche rather than pushing on — the fast altitude gain just above the village is where most trekkers come unstuck.
  • Leave a spare day for Lukla's cliff-edge airstrip, one of the world's most weather-dependent — flights are grounded often.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Climb Kala Patthar for the alpenglow

    Climb Kala Patthar for the alpenglow

    Set out in the dark for the 5,545-metre crown of Kala Patthar and reach it as the sun clears the horizon, catching Everest's summit in pink and gold while the whole spread of base camp still lies in shadow at your feet.

  2. 2

    Trek the Khumbu valley to Base Camp

    Trek the Khumbu valley to Base Camp

    Follow the classic route up the valley, crossing swaying suspension bridges and giving way to bell-hung yak trains, to Everest Base Camp at 5,364 metres, where the Khumbu Icefall groans and shifts at the mountain's foot.

  3. 3

    Sit in on Tengboche's dawn rite

    Sit in on Tengboche's dawn rite

    Reach Tengboche Monastery at 3,867 metres, the spiritual heart of the Khumbu, and join the morning prayers as long copper horns sound out beneath Everest and the fluted peak of Ama Dablam.

  4. 4

    Acclimatise in Namche Bazaar

    Acclimatise in Namche Bazaar

    Take a rest day in Namche Bazaar, the Sherpa capital stacked up a terraced mountain amphitheatre, browsing the Saturday market for yak cheese and climbing to the rim for a first clear look at Thamserku and Kongde.

  5. 5

    Watch the Milky Way over the Khumbu

    Watch the Milky Way over the Khumbu

    Step out after dark where almost no light reaches for a hundred kilometres and let your eyes adjust until the Milky Way stands sharp above the glaciers, the silence broken only by the crack of distant ice.

Watch

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