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Mount Karthala

Mount Karthala

PeaksComorosGrande Comore (Ngazidja),Comoros
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

An active shield volcano that is most of Grande Comore, its ash caldera still steaming, its porous lava leaving the island without a single river.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Oct

The one dry window to walk across the island and camp on the rim: firm ash, a clear dawn view into the caldera before cloud rebuilds by late morning, and the year's driest skies by September–October. From July humpbacks calve below the black coast.



Year-round The steaming ash caldera, the lava cliffs and the cloud forest with its birds found nowhere else are here every day of the year. What turns with the season is the climb, the clear dawn view and the whales offshore.

Mount Karthala is an active shield volcano of 2,361 metres that is most of the island of Grande Comore, in the Comoros, with a summit caldera three kilometres across that still steams, and its porous lava swallows the rain so completely that the island has not a single river, and it is climbed over two days with a Comorian hiking club from the villages on its slopes. The volcano erupted in 2005 and 2006, showering the island with ash, and its flows have reached the sea again and again, paving stretches of the coast in black rock and grey volcanic shingle, so that the shore below the mountain is lava and the water off it drops steeply, which brings the humpbacks that calve here in the southern winter close in within sight of the black beach; the climb starts in villages of banana and vanilla, goes up through rainforest and into a belt of giant heather, where the trees shrink and then quit and the path runs through waist-high heather and ferns rooted in loose ash, to a camp near the rim. Comorian clubs climb most weekends, and joining one turns a hard slog into a shared one, with guides and porters who read the cloud and know where the trail vanishes. The rim is reached in the dark, since by mid-morning the cloud usually seals the summit for the rest of the day, and at first light the caldera opens below, a floor of grey ash and black lava, and the island and the sea beyond. The Karthala scops owl exists on this volcano and nowhere else on Earth, calling in the forest belt at night, and the lava does not stop at the shoreline, since the coelacanth, the living fossil fish, was found alive in the deep water off the volcano's submarine slopes in the 1950s, in caves in the lava. The descent is the same way, on ash that slides. Karthala is a mountain that is an island, and it is still breathing through its top.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Climb between May and October — the dry kusi season firms the ash underfoot and lifts the cloud off the summit, while the rest of the year brings drenching rain and cyclone risk.
  • Go with a guide from M'vouni or Boboni — above the tree line the route crosses trackless ash and lava with no signposts, and the walk up takes around seven hours.
  • Carry every litre you will drink — there is no spring, stream or tap above the forest, and the rim campsite has no water and no shelter of any kind.
  • Check the observatory's current alert before you set out — this is a genuinely restless volcano, and nights on the rim turn cold enough for a warm layer despite the tropical latitude.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Push through the giant heather belt

    Push through the giant heather belt

    Above the rainforest the trees shrink and then quit, and the path runs through waist-high heather and ferns rooted in loose ash. Cloud drags across it most of the day, and the ground squeaks with volcanic grit underfoot. Hours earlier you were walking under coconut palms at sea level.

  2. 2

    Beat the cloud to the rim edge at dawn

    Beat the cloud to the rim edge at dawn

    From your tent near the rim, set out in the dark and be standing at the crater edge as the light comes up — by mid-morning the cloud usually seals the summit for the rest of the day. As it clears you can pick out the Chahalé pit and the young cinder cones on the ash floor, steam threading up from the cracks. Walk a stretch along the rim to shift your angle down into the 3-by-4-kilometre basin before the mist closes back in.

  3. 3

    Walk up with a Comorian trekking group

    Walk up with a Comorian trekking group

    Comorian hiking clubs climb Karthala most weekends, and joining one turns a hard two-day slog into a shared one, with guides and porters who read the mountain's cloud and know where the trail vanishes. They also carry the water and the tents. Camping together makes the cold, exposed night on the rim far easier to take.

  4. 4

    Walk the black lava shore the mountain built

    Walk the black lava shore the mountain built

    Karthala's flows have reached the sea again and again, leaving stretches of Grande Comore's coast paved in black rock and grey volcanic shingle. The swell breaks hard against it, and a few strokes out the water already turns deep blue. This is lava from the same volcano you climbed at 2,361 metres, after it ran all the way down to the coast.

Watch

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